Best Plants For African Cichlids – How To Create A Lush, Natural
Keeping a beautiful, green aquarium is a dream for many, but when you add aggressive, rock-dwelling fish into the mix, things get tricky.
You’ve likely heard that keeping live greenery with these “underwater interior decorators” is impossible because they will either eat them or dig them up.
I’m here to tell you that finding the best plants for african cichlids is not only possible, but it can actually improve the health of your fish and the stability of your ecosystem.
In this guide, I’ll share my years of experience to help you choose the right species and set them up for long-term success.
Why Keeping Plants with African Cichlids is a Unique Challenge
If you’ve kept a community tank with Tetras or Guppies, you know that plants usually just sit there and grow.
African Cichlids, particularly those from Lake Malawi like the Mbuna group, are a completely different story.
These fish are naturally inclined to graze on Aufwuchs—a mixture of algae and small organisms—which means they view most soft-leaved plants as a snack.
The Digging Instinct
Many African Cichlids are notorious diggers, constantly moving sand to create caves or spawning pits.
This behavior often results in traditional rooted plants being uprooted and left floating within minutes of being planted.
To succeed, we have to choose plants that can either be attached to rocks or those that have massive, deep root systems.
High pH and Hard Water Requirements
African Rift Lake environments are characterized by high pH levels (7.8 to 8.6) and high mineral content (GH and KH).
Most common aquarium plants prefer soft, slightly acidic water, so they often “melt” or stop growing in a cichlid setup.
The best plants for african cichlids are those that naturally thrive in alkaline conditions and can handle the “hard” water parameters.
Top Criteria for Choosing the Best Plants for African Cichlids
Before we dive into the specific species list, let’s look at the three “golden rules” I use when selecting greenery for these tanks.
1. Thick, Leathery Leaves
You want plants that feel more like plastic than silk; if a leaf is too soft, a hungry Mbuna will shred it in a single afternoon.
Look for species with a thick cuticle layer that makes the foliage difficult to tear and, ideally, bitter to the taste.
2. Epiphytic Growth Habits
Epiphytes are plants that grow attached to hardscape like rocks or driftwood rather than being buried in the substrate.
Since they aren’t in the sand, the fish can’t uproot them during their “remodeling” projects.
This is the single most effective strategy for maintaining a planted African Cichlid tank.
3. Fast Growth or High Resilience
If a plant grows quickly, it can often outpace the minor nipping that might occur from curious Peacocks or Haps.
Alternatively, slow-growing but extremely tough plants like Anubias are perfect because they are simply too much work for the fish to eat.
The Ultimate List of the Best Plants for African Cichlids
Now, let’s get into the specifics of which species I recommend for your tank.
These have been tested in high-pH environments and have the toughness to survive the boisterous nature of African Cichlids.
Anubias Species (The Gold Standard)
Anubias is arguably the king of the best plants for african cichlids because of its incredibly tough, dark green leaves.
These are epiphytes, meaning you should never bury their thick horizontal stem, called a rhizome, in the sand.
Instead, use a bit of Cyanoacrylate gel (super glue) or fishing line to secure them to your limestone or lava rocks.
Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus)
Java Fern is another “bulletproof” option that cichlids generally find unpalatable.
It has a very bitter taste that discourages grazing, and like Anubias, it is an epiphyte that thrives when attached to rocks.
The Windelov variety, with its lacy tips, adds a beautiful texture that contrasts well with the rugged rocks of a Rift Lake setup.
Vallisneria (The Background Specialist)
If you want that classic “tall grass” look, Vallisneria is your best bet.
Unlike the others mentioned, “Val” needs to be planted in the substrate, which can be risky with diggers.
However, it loves hard water and high pH, often growing like a weed once it establishes its root system.
Crinuum Calamistratum (The African Onion Plant)
This is a stunning, crinkly-leaved plant that originates from West Africa and is exceptionally tough.
It has a large bulb and a massive root system that, once established, is nearly impossible for a fish to dislodge.
Its unique, wavy leaves look incredible swaying in the high-flow currents often found in cichlid tanks.
Bolbitis Heudelotii (African Water Fern)
Since this plant actually comes from African waters, it is naturally adapted to the environment.
It features beautiful, transparent dark green fronds and prefers being attached to rocks in areas of high water flow.
It is slightly more demanding regarding CO2 and nutrients, but it is a showstopper in a mature tank.
Strategic Planting: How to Keep Your Plants Rooted and Safe
Choosing the right plant is only half the battle; how you “install” them is what determines if they survive the first week.
Don’t worry—this setup is perfect for beginners if you follow these simple steps!
Protecting Rooted Plants with “Rock Barriers”
If you are planting Vallisneria or Amazon Swords, don’t just stick them in the open sand.
Place the plant in the substrate and then surround the base with heavy river stones or pieces of slate.
This prevents the fish from getting close enough to the roots to dig them up.
The Super Glue Method for Epiphytes
For Anubias and Java Fern, I always recommend the “glue and go” method.
Take your plant, pat the rhizome dry with a paper towel, and apply a small dab of super glue gel.
Press it against a dry spot on your rock for 30 seconds, and it’s permanently anchored against even the most aggressive fish.
Floating Plants as a Nutrient Sponge
While not always the most aesthetic choice for a Rift Lake tank, floating plants like Hornwort can be great.
Hornwort is very hard and needle-like, making it unappealing to eat.
It floats at the surface, absorbing excess nitrates and providing shade, which can help reduce aggression in the tank.
Water Chemistry and Lighting for a Planted Cichlid Tank
One of the biggest mistakes hobbyists make is forgetting that plants need food just as much as fish do.
In a cichlid tank, you have to balance the high mineral content with the needs of the flora.
Managing High pH and Fertilization
In high pH water, certain micronutrients like Iron become “locked out” and unavailable to plants.
You should look for chelated fertilizers specifically designed to remain stable in alkaline environments.
A weekly dose of a comprehensive liquid fertilizer will keep your Anubias from turning yellow.
Lighting Requirements
Most of the best plants for african cichlids are low-to-medium light species.
Because African Cichlid tanks often have high bioloads (lots of fish waste), excessive lighting can lead to massive algae outbreaks.
I recommend using a timer to keep your lights on for no more than 6-8 hours a day to maintain a clean look.
The Role of Substrate
While most African Cichlid keepers use aragonite or crushed coral sand to buffer pH, this isn’t great for plant roots.
If you want to keep rooted plants, consider using “root tabs” (fertilizer spikes) pushed deep into the sand.
This provides nutrients directly to the roots without altering the water chemistry your fish need.
Creating a Natural Aesthetic: Rocks and Greenery
A common misconception is that a cichlid tank should only be a pile of rocks.
Adding plants creates a much more dynamic and “lived-in” feel that mimics the transitional zones of Lake Malawi.
Building the “Rock Wall”
Start by stacking your rocks (like Hole Stone or Seiryu Rock) to create plenty of caves.
Once the structure is stable, tuck your Anubias and Java Fern into the crevices between the rocks.
This hides the roots and makes the plants look like they are naturally growing out of the stone.
Using Wood Sparingly
While driftwood can lower pH, a few small pieces of Mopani or Spider Wood are usually fine in a buffered tank.
Wood provides an excellent surface for mosses or Bolbitis to latch onto.
Just monitor your pH levels to ensure the tannins aren’t pushing the acidity too low for your fish.
Common Problems and Expert Troubleshooting
Even with the right species, you might run into a few hiccups.
Here is how to handle the most frequent issues I see in the hobby.
“My Fish are Shredding My Anubias!”
If your fish are attacking even the toughest plants, they might be looking for more vegetable matter in their diet.
Try increasing the amount of Spirulina or blanched zucchini you feed them.
When their “veggie itch” is scratched by tasty food, they are less likely to take it out on your decor.
Algae Growing on Plant Leaves
Since many cichlid plants are slow growers, they are prone to Black Brush Algae (BBA) or green spot algae.
You can spot-treat these areas with a little bit of hydrogen peroxide (using a syringe) during water changes.
Increasing your water flow can also help prevent algae from settling on the broad leaves of Anubias.
Plants Turning Yellow or “Melting”
This is usually a sign of a nutrient deficiency or a sudden change in water parameters.
Ensure you aren’t changing too much water at once, and keep your nitrate levels steady.
Adding a high-quality liquid carbon supplement can also help plants compete for nutrients in hard water.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Do African Cichlids eat live plants?
Many species, especially Mbuna, are herbivores and will graze on soft plants.
However, they typically avoid tough-leaved species like Anubias or bitter-tasting plants like Java Fern.
Can I use plastic plants instead?
You certainly can, but live plants provide biological filtration by absorbing nitrates and phosphates.
Live plants also look more natural and provide a more stimulating environment for your fish.
What is the best substrate for a planted cichlid tank?
A fine sand substrate is best for the fish’s digging behavior.
For the plants, simply use root tabs or stick to epiphytes that don’t need to be buried at all.
Do I need CO2 for these plants?
None of the plants on my recommended list strictly require CO2 injection.
They are all “low-tech” friendly and will grow just fine with good light and basic liquid fertilizers.
How do I stop my cichlids from uprooting everything?
The best way is to attach plants to rocks or driftwood using glue or thread.
If you must plant in the sand, use heavy stones to anchor the base of the plant.
Conclusion
Bringing greenery into an African Cichlid aquarium is one of the most rewarding challenges in the hobby.
By choosing the best plants for african cichlids—like Anubias, Java Fern, and Vallisneria—you can create a stunning contrast between the bright colors of the fish and the deep greens of the foliage.
Remember to focus on tough, epiphytic species and protect any roots with heavy rocks.
With a little patience and the right species selection, you’ll have a thriving, lush aquatic landscape that both you and your fish will love.
Happy fish keeping, and don’t be afraid to experiment—sometimes the “impossible” tank becomes the most beautiful one in the room!
