What Type Of Care Does A Anubias Nana – A Beginner-Friendly Path To A

Written ByHoward Parker

Have you ever bought a beautiful aquarium plant, only to watch it melt away into a sad, brown mush within weeks? It’s a frustrating experience that makes many aquarists feel like they just don’t have a “green thumb.” You want that lush, vibrant underwater garden you see online, but keeping plants alive feels like a complicated, secret science.

I promise you, it doesn’t have to be that way. There is a plant so resilient, so forgiving, and so beautiful that it practically thrives on neglect. It’s the Anubias barteri var. nana, and this guide is going to show you exactly what type of care does a anubias nana need to not just survive, but flourish in your aquarium.

We’ll walk through everything, step-by-step. From the single most important rule of planting it (don’t worry, it’s easy!) to ideal lighting, simple feeding, and how to solve the few problems you might encounter. Get ready to unlock the secret to a stunning, low-maintenance planted tank.

Why Anubias Nana is the Perfect ‘Set-and-Forget’ Plant

Before we dive into the specifics, let’s talk about why this plant is a legend in the aquarium hobby. Understanding the benefits of what type of care does a anubias nana requires helps you appreciate just how incredible this little plant is. It’s not just for beginners; seasoned aquascapers love it for its versatility and robust nature.

Think of it as the cast-iron skillet of the aquarium world—tough, reliable, and gets better with time. Here’s why it deserves a spot in your tank:

  • Nearly Indestructible: Anubias Nana is famous for its hardiness. It tolerates a massive range of water parameters, making it suitable for almost any freshwater tank, from a peaceful community setup to a tank with boisterous cichlids.
  • Low-Light Champion: You don’t need a fancy, high-tech lighting system. This plant evolved in the shaded streams of West Africa, so it actually prefers low to moderate light. This also means less algae for you to fight!
  • Doesn’t Need Special Substrate: Because it’s an epiphyte—a plant that grows attached to surfaces rather than in the soil—you don’t need nutrient-rich aquarium soil. It pulls what it needs from the water column, giving you total freedom with your substrate choices.
  • Slow and Steady Growth: Its slow growth rate means you won’t be constantly trimming it. It finds its spot and stays there, looking gorgeous with minimal fuss. This is a core part of a sustainable, eco-friendly what type of care does a anubias nana approach.
  • Fish-Resistant Leaves: The leaves are thick, waxy, and tough. Most herbivorous fish, like goldfish and many cichlids, tend to leave them alone, making it one of the few plants that can survive with plant-nippers.

Getting Started: How to Plant Anubias Nana the Right Way

Alright, let’s get our hands wet! How you plant your Anubias Nana is the most critical step in its long-term health. Getting this right is 90% of the battle, and it all comes down to one simple rule. This is the first and most important of our what type of care does a anubias nana tips.

The Golden Rule: Don’t Bury the Rhizome!

If you remember only one thing from this entire guide, make it this: never, ever bury the rhizome.

The rhizome is the thick, horizontal green stem from which the leaves and roots grow. It looks like a thick root running sideways. This part of the plant needs to be exposed to the water column to breathe and absorb nutrients. If you bury it under your gravel or sand, it will be smothered, rot, and the entire plant will die. This is the number one cause of “mysterious” Anubias deaths.

Instead of planting it in the substrate, you need to attach it to something. This mimics its natural growth habit on rocks and logs in the wild.

Attaching Your Anubias to Decor

You have a few fantastic, easy options for securing your Anubias. Here’s how to what type of care does a anubias nana involves proper anchoring:

  1. The Super Glue Method (My Favorite): This is the cleanest and fastest way. You’ll need a tube of gel-type super glue containing cyanoacrylate. It’s 100% aquarium-safe once cured.
    • Take your rock or driftwood out of the tank and pat the attachment spot dry.
    • Apply a few small dabs of gel super glue to the spot.
    • Gently press the rhizome (or some of the thicker roots) onto the glue and hold for about 30-60 seconds.
    • Let it sit for a few minutes to fully cure before placing it back in the aquarium. Done!
  2. The Fishing Line or Thread Method: This is the classic method and works just as well.
    • Choose a dark-colored cotton thread or a clear fishing line.
    • Simply tie the Anubias rhizome gently but firmly to your chosen piece of hardscape.
    • Don’t tie it so tightly that you crush the rhizome. Just snug enough to hold it in place.
    • Over several months, the plant’s roots will naturally grip the surface. Once it’s secure, you can carefully snip and remove the thread or line.

You can also simply wedge the plant between rocks or in a crevice of driftwood, as long as the rhizome remains unburied and the plant is secure from the current.

What Type of Care Does a Anubias Nana Truly Need? The Core Parameters

Now that your plant is happily anchored, let’s explore the ongoing care. The good news? It’s incredibly simple. This what type of care does a anubias nana care guide is more about what not to do than what you need to do. Stability is key.

Lighting Requirements: Less is More

Anubias Nana is a true low-light plant. It thrives in the shadier parts of an aquarium, perhaps under floating plants or larger, taller stem plants. Standard, out-of-the-box aquarium LED lights are almost always perfect for it.

Too much light is actually a problem. Intense, direct light won’t kill the plant, but its slow-growing leaves become a prime target for stubborn Green Spot Algae. Aim for 6-8 hours of low to moderate light per day. If you see spots of green algae forming on the oldest leaves, it’s a sure sign your light is too intense or on for too long.

Ideal Water Parameters and Temperature

Here’s where the Anubias’s forgiving nature really shines. It’s not fussy at all, but here are the ideal ranges to aim for:

  • Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C) is the sweet spot, perfect for most tropical community tanks.
  • pH: It prefers a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 6.0-7.5 but can adapt to slightly higher levels.
  • Water Hardness: It is not picky about hardness and will do well in both soft and hard water (GH 3-15 dGH).

The most important thing isn’t hitting these numbers exactly, but keeping them stable. Avoid large, sudden swings in temperature or chemistry.

Fertilization and CO2: Necessary or Optional?

For Anubias Nana, both fertilizers and CO2 injection are optional but beneficial. It can absolutely survive in a low-tech tank by absorbing nutrients from fish waste and tap water.

However, to see its best color and encourage slightly faster, more robust growth, a little help goes a long way. A comprehensive, all-in-one liquid fertilizer (like Aquarium Co-Op Easy Green or Seachem Flourish) dosed once or twice a week is more than enough. This provides the essential micro and macronutrients it can’t get from fish waste alone.

CO2 injection is a luxury for this plant. If you have it for other, more demanding plants in your tank, your Anubias will certainly appreciate it and may grow a bit larger and faster. But do not add a CO2 system just for Anubias—it’s completely unnecessary.

Common Problems with What Type of Care Does a Anubias Nana (And How to Fix Them)

Even this tough-as-nails plant can run into a few issues. Luckily, they are almost always easy to diagnose and fix. Understanding the common problems with what type of care does a anubias nana can face is key to long-term success.

The Dreaded Anubias Rot

The Symptom: The rhizome becomes soft, mushy, and brown/black. Leaves start detaching easily at the base.

The Cause: 99% of the time, this is caused by the rhizome being buried in the substrate or being physically damaged.

The Fix: If you catch it early, you can save the plant. Remove it from the tank and, using a sharp, clean blade, cut away all the soft, rotting parts of the rhizome. If there is a healthy, firm section remaining with leaves attached, you can re-attach this healthy portion to your hardscape. Make sure it gets good water flow to help it recover.

Battling Algae on Leaves

The Symptom: Hard green spots (Green Spot Algae) or dark, fuzzy tufts (Black Beard Algae) appear on the older leaves.

The Cause: This happens because the leaves are long-lived and grow slowly, giving algae a chance to settle. It’s usually a sign of too much light, a nutrient imbalance (particularly low phosphates for GSA), or inconsistent CO2 levels.

The Fix: First, reduce your lighting period or intensity. Ensure good water circulation around the plant. Manually remove what you can with a soft toothbrush (be gentle!). For stubborn algae, an algae-eating crew of nerite snails or Amano shrimp can be a huge help. Spot-treating with liquid carbon (like Seachem Excel or Flourish Excel) can also be effective, but be sure to turn off your filter during application.

Yellowing Leaves (Chlorosis)

The Symptom: An older leaf begins to turn yellow, often starting from the tip or edges.

The Cause: This is usually the plant’s natural life cycle—old leaves die off as new ones grow. However, if multiple leaves are yellowing, it could signal a nutrient deficiency, most commonly a lack of nitrogen or iron.

The Fix: If it’s just one old leaf, simply snip it off at the base. If it’s widespread, it’s a sign to start using a good all-in-one liquid fertilizer as mentioned earlier. This is one of the key what type of care does a anubias nana best practices—providing consistent, light nutrition.

Propagation and Sustainable Growth: Creating More Anubias for Free!

One of the most rewarding parts of plant ownership is creating more plants! Propagating Anubias Nana is incredibly simple and is a fantastic, sustainable what type of care does a anubias nana practice. You’ll never have to buy another one!

When your plant’s rhizome has grown long and has at least 8-10 healthy leaves, you’re ready to propagate.

  1. Gently remove the plant from the tank.
  2. Using a sharp razor blade or aquascaping scissors, find a spot on the rhizome to make a cut.
  3. Ensure that each new section you create has at least 3-4 healthy leaves and a corresponding portion of the rhizome. Smaller sections may struggle to survive.
  4. That’s it! You now have two or more Anubias plants. Simply attach the new pieces to driftwood or rocks just like you did with the original plant.

This is an amazing, eco-friendly way to fill out your aquarium or share with fellow hobbyists without spending more money.

Frequently Asked Questions About Anubias Nana Care

How fast does Anubias Nana grow?

Extremely slowly! In a low-tech setup, you might only see one new leaf every 3-5 weeks. This is completely normal. Its slow growth is part of its appeal, as it requires very little maintenance.

Can I keep Anubias Nana with goldfish or cichlids?

Yes! Anubias Nana is one of the best plants for tanks with rough or herbivorous fish. Its leaves are thick, waxy, and taste bitter, so most fish that would otherwise devour plants will leave it completely alone.

Do I need to trim my Anubias Nana?

Very rarely. The only trimming you’ll need to do is to remove an old leaf that is yellowing and dying off naturally. You can snip the leaf stem as close to the rhizome as possible. Otherwise, it maintains its compact shape on its own.

Your Journey to a Lush Aquarium Starts Now

You now have a complete what type of care does a anubias nana guide in your hands. You know the golden rule of not burying the rhizome, the beauty of its low-light needs, and how to troubleshoot the few issues that might pop up.

Anubias Nana isn’t just a plant; it’s a confidence builder. It proves that you can have a beautiful, thriving planted aquarium without complex equipment or a degree in botany. It’s a forgiving teacher that rewards basic, stable care with years of effortless beauty.

So go ahead, find a nice piece of driftwood, grab a tube of super glue, and give this amazing plant a home in your aquarium. You’ve got this. Happy scaping!

Howard Parker
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