Plants That Can Live In Water – The Ultimate Guide To Aquatic Plants

Starting your first aquarium or indoor water garden is an incredibly exciting journey, but it is easy to feel overwhelmed by the sheer variety of greenery available.

We all agree that nothing transforms a glass box into a thriving ecosystem quite like lush, vibrant foliage.

I promise that by the end of this guide, you will know exactly which plants that can live in water are right for your specific setup and how to keep them thriving for years.

We will preview the best low-maintenance species, explore the secrets of nutrient balance, and look at how to create a “set and forget” environment that both you and your fish will love.

Understanding the Different Types of plants that can live in water

Before we dive into specific species, it is vital to understand that not all water-dwelling plants are the same.

In the hobby, we generally categorize plants that can live in water into three main groups based on how they grow.

Understanding these categories will save you a lot of frustration and money when you are at the local fish store.

Submerged Plants: The True Aquatics

Submerged plants spend their entire lives underwater, using their leaves to absorb carbon dioxide and nutrients directly from the water column.

These are your classic aquarium staples like Anacharis or Hornwort, which provide excellent hiding spots for shy shrimp.

They are essential for oxygenating the water and competing with algae for resources.

Floating Plants: The Surface Dwellers

Floating plants sit on the surface, with their leaves exposed to the air and their roots dangling down into the tank.

They are the “shrimp keepers’ secret weapon” because the long, trailing roots provide an incredible grazing ground for tiny crustaceans.

Because they have access to atmospheric CO2, they often grow much faster than submerged plants.

Emergent and Riparian Plants

These are the “bridge” plants that have their roots in the water but their foliage growing out into the room.

Many people use Pothos or Peace Lilies in this way to help filter nitrates out of the water.

This setup is perfect for beginners who want a “jungle” look without needing expensive high-intensity lighting.

Top 10 Low-Maintenance plants that can live in water for Your Aquarium

If you are just starting out, you want species that are “bulletproof” and can handle a few beginner mistakes.

Here are my top recommendations for plants that can live in water that require minimal effort but offer maximum visual impact.

1. Anubias Barteri

The Anubias family is legendary among aquarists for being nearly impossible to kill.

It has thick, waxy leaves that most herbivorous fish (like Goldfish or Cichlids) won’t bother eating.

Pro Tip: Never bury the horizontal stem (rhizome) in the sand, or it will rot—simply tie it to a rock or piece of driftwood!

2. Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus)

Much like Anubias, Java Fern is a “rhizome plant” that prefers to be attached to hardscape rather than buried.

It thrives in low light and produces beautiful, dark green fronds that add an ancient feel to your tank.

It is a slow grower, which means you won’t have to spend every weekend trimming it.

3. Java Moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri)

If you are keeping shrimp or breeding fish, Java Moss is a non-negotiable addition to your tank.

It creates a dense carpet or “moss wall” where baby fry can hide from hungry parents.

It can survive in almost any lighting condition and is incredibly easy to propagate by simply snipping off a piece.

4. Amazon Sword (Echinodorus)

For those who want a massive center-piece plant, the Amazon Sword is the way to go.

It is a heavy root feeder, meaning it pulls most of its nutrients from the substrate rather than the water.

If you use a plain sand or gravel bottom, make sure to tuck a root tab fertilizer near its base every few months.

5. Water Sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides)

Water Sprite is a versatile plant that can be planted in the substrate or left to float on the surface.

Its lacy, delicate leaves grow very quickly, making it an excellent “nutrient sponge” for removing excess nitrates.

Don’t worry if it grows too fast—you can easily prune it back with a pair of sharp aquarium scissors.

The Secret to Success: Light, Nutrients, and Water Flow

Even the hardiest plants that can live in water need a basic foundation to stay healthy and vibrant.

Think of your aquarium as a three-legged stool: Light, Nutrients, and CO2 must be in balance for the stool to stay upright.

Finding the “Sweet Spot” for Lighting

Most beginners actually provide too much light, which leads to a massive explosion of green hair algae.

Aim for 6 to 8 hours of light per day, and use a simple plug-in timer to keep the schedule consistent.

If you see your leaves turning yellow or transparent, it might be a sign that your light is too weak.

Nutrient Management: Feeding Your Plants

Your fish provide some nutrients through their waste, but often it isn’t enough for a heavily planted tank.

I highly recommend using a high-quality “all-in-one” liquid fertilizer once a week after your water change.

Make sure the fertilizer is shrimp-safe if you are keeping invertebrates, as some older formulas contain high levels of copper.

The Importance of Gentle Water Flow

Plants need water to move around them to prevent “dead zones” where nutrients can’t reach the leaves.

However, too much flow can physically damage delicate species like Cabomba.

A gentle ripple on the surface is usually enough to ensure CO2 and nutrients are distributed evenly throughout the tank.

How to Plant Your Aquatic Greenery Correctly

One of the most common reasons plants that can live in water fail is improper planting technique during the initial setup.

It is not as simple as “digging a hole” in the gravel; different species require different handling.

Working with Potted vs. Bare Root Plants

When you buy plants from a store, they often come in plastic pots filled with “rock wool.”

Gently remove the plastic pot and peel away as much of the wool as possible without damaging the roots.

Trimming the roots slightly (about half an inch) can actually stimulate new, healthy growth once the plant is in its new home.

Securing Epiphytes to Hardscape

As mentioned earlier, plants like Anubias and Java Fern shouldn’t be buried in the substrate.

You can use a small amount of cyanoacrylate-based super glue gel to stick them directly to rocks or wood.

Alternatively, use some dark cotton thread or fishing line to tie them down until the roots naturally grip the surface.

Stem Plant Spacing

When planting stem plants like Bacopa or Ludwigia, don’t plant the whole bunch together in one clump.

Separate the individual stems and plant them about an inch apart so that light can reach the bottom leaves.

This prevents the bottom of the plant from rotting and “melting” away.

Floating Plants: The Best Options for Surface Cover

Floating plants that can live in water provide a beautiful, natural look and help dim the light for shy fish like Bettas.

However, they can be a bit messy if you don’t manage them correctly.

Red Root Floaters (Phyllanthus fluitans)

These are stunning plants that develop deep red roots and reddish leaves under high intensity light.

They are sensitive to surface agitation, so they do best in tanks with a sponge filter or a baffled outflow.

They are excellent for sucking up excess nutrients and preventing algae blooms.

Salvinia Minima (Water Spangles)

Salvinia has unique, fuzzy leaves that actually repel water, keeping the top of the plant dry.

It is incredibly hardy and grows very fast, so you will likely need to scoop some out every week.

Note: Always dispose of excess floating plants in the trash, never down the drain or into local waterways!

Frogbit (Limnobium laevigatum)

Frogbit looks like tiny lily pads and has long, elegant roots that can reach all the way to the bottom of the tank.

It provides a great playground for shrimp and helps stabilize the water parameters.

Just be sure it doesn’t cover 100% of the surface, or your submerged plants will starve for light.

Common Problems and Troubleshooting

Even experienced aquarists run into issues with their plants that can live in water from time to time.

The key is to observe your plants closely and react calmly when you see a change in their appearance.

The “Melting” Phase

Many aquatic plants are grown “emersed” (out of water) at the nursery because they grow faster that way.

When you put them in your tank, the old leaves may die off and rot—this is called melting.

Don’t panic! Simply trim away the dead leaves, and soon you will see new, “submersed-form” leaves sprouting from the center.

Algae Overgrowth

If your plants are covered in green or brown fuzz, it is usually a sign of an imbalance between light and nutrients.

Try reducing your lighting period by an hour and performing more frequent water changes.

Adding “clean-up crew” members like Amano Shrimp or Nerite Snails can also help keep your leaves sparkling clean.

Holes in Leaves (Potassium Deficiency)

If you notice small, pin-sized holes forming in the older leaves of your plants, they likely need more potassium.

A specialized liquid potassium supplement can fix this issue within a few weeks.

Always check your water parameters to ensure your nitrates aren’t reaching dangerous levels for your fish.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Do plants that can live in water need CO2 injection?

While many high-end “aquascaping” plants require pressurized CO2 to look their best, most of the species mentioned in this guide do perfectly fine without it.
Low-tech tanks rely on the CO2 produced by fish respiration and surface agitation.
If you want faster growth and more intense colors, CO2 helps, but it is certainly not a requirement for a beautiful tank.

How do I stop my fish from eating my plants?

Some fish, like Goldfish or large Silver Dollars, are notorious for treating your aquarium like a salad bar.
To prevent this, choose tough-leaved plants that can live in water like Anubias or Bolbitis.
You can also try “distracting” your fish by feeding them blanched zucchini or high-quality algae wafers.

Can I use regular garden soil for my water plants?

You can use a method called the “Walstad Method,” which involves a layer of organic potting soil capped with sand.
However, for beginners, I recommend using a dedicated aquarium soil (aquasoil) or inert gravel with root tabs.
Regular garden soil can contain fertilizers or pesticides that are toxic to fish and shrimp.

Which plants are best for a Betta fish tank?

Betta fish love plants with broad leaves that they can “rest” on near the surface.
Anubias Nana and Amazon Swords are perfect for this.
Floating plants like Frogbit are also great because they mimic the Betta’s natural stagnant-water habitat.

How often should I trim my aquatic plants?

It depends on the growth rate, but a general rule of thumb is to trim whenever the plants start blocking too much light or crowding out other species.
For stem plants, you can cut the top half off and replant it in the substrate—it will grow new roots and become a whole new plant!

Conclusion: Your Path to a Lush Underwater Garden

Bringing plants that can live in water into your home is one of the most rewarding aspects of the aquarium hobby.

Not only do they make your tank look stunning, but they also create a healthier, more stable environment for your fish and shrimp.

Remember to start with hardy species like Java Fern or Anubias, keep your lighting consistent, and don’t be afraid of the occasional “melt.”

With a little patience and the right choice of greenery, you will soon have a thriving aquatic ecosystem that provides endless hours of relaxation and joy.

Happy planting, and welcome to the wonderful world of Aquifarm!

Howard Parker

Founder & Author, AquiFarm

Howard Parker is a fishkeeping expert with over 20 years of experience. He is the founder and author of the Aquifarm located in Houston, TX 48. He has an academic degree in Agriculture Science. In addition to his professional pursuits, He is also an avid hobbyist of aqua pets, plants, and fish. Howard is dedicated to providing comprehensive information and resources for both novices and experienced fishkeepers, with a focus on professionalism and accuracy.

Published: August 2, 2026Last updated: October 9, 2026Editorial PolicyReport a correction