Plants That Can Grow Out Of Aquarium – The Ultimate Guide To Stunning Displays

Have you ever looked at your fish tank and felt like something was missing from the top half?

Maybe you’ve seen those breathtaking “ripariums” online where lush, green foliage explodes from the water’s surface, creating a true indoor jungle.

If you want to achieve that look while drastically improving your water quality, choosing the right plants that can grow out of aquarium setups is the ultimate game-changer.

I’ve spent years experimenting with different species in my own tanks, and I can tell you there is nothing quite like the sight of a vibrant Epipremnum aureum trailing down the side of a glass box.

In this guide, I’m going to share exactly how you can bridge the gap between the aquatic and terrestrial worlds to create a thriving ecosystem.

Why You Should Grow Plants Above the Waterline

Before we dive into the specific species, let’s talk about why this method is so effective for both beginners and seasoned pros.

When you grow plants with their roots in the water and their leaves in the air, you are tapping into a high-octane biological filter.

Plants growing in the air have access to unlimited CO2, which is often the “bottleneck” for growth inside the tank.

Because they grow faster, they consume nitrates and phosphates at an incredible rate, keeping your water crystal clear and your fish healthier.

Plus, it creates a natural bridge between your aquarium and your home decor, making the tank feel like a living piece of furniture.

Choosing the Best plants that can grow out of aquarium for Beginners

When you are just starting out, you want plants that are “bulletproof” and can handle the transition from soil to water without melting.

Not every houseplant can survive with its roots constantly submerged, so selection is key to avoiding a rotting mess.

Here are my top recommendations for plants that can grow out of aquarium environments that I have personally found to be the most resilient.

1. Pothos (Epipremnum aureum)

Pothos is the undisputed king of the riparium world and for very good reason.

It is incredibly hardy, grows at a lightning-fast pace, and has a root system that looks like a beautiful underwater forest for your shrimp to hide in.

To start, simply take a cutting, let the end “callus” over for a few hours, and then pop the stem into your tank.

2. Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum)

If you want something with more height and stunning white blooms, the Peace Lily is a fantastic choice.

I love using these because their broad, dark green leaves provide excellent shade for fish that prefer lower light levels.

Make sure you wash every bit of soil off the roots before placing them in the aquarium to prevent any ammonia spikes or cloudiness.

3. Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum)

Spider plants are quirky, fun, and produce “babies” on long runners that look amazing dangling over the edge of the glass.

They are particularly good at absorbing heavy metals and excess nutrients from the water column.

Just ensure the crown of the plant—where the leaves meet the roots—stays above the water to prevent rot.

4. Monstera Adansonii (Swiss Cheese Plant)

For a more “exotic” look, the Monstera adansonii provides unique fenestrated leaves that scream tropical paradise.

It is a vining plant, so you can train it to climb up a moss pole or trail down the sides of your aquarium stand.

Its roots are thick and sturdy, making them a great anchoring point for smaller anubias or mosses if you want to get creative.

How to Secure Your Plants to the Aquarium

One of the biggest hurdles for hobbyists is figuring out how to keep the plants from falling into the tank.

You can’t just throw a plant in and hope for the best; the leaves need to stay dry while the roots stay wet.

Using Plant Caddies and Baskets

The most professional way to mount plants that can grow out of aquarium rims is by using specialized plastic caddies or “riparium planters.”

These usually hang on the back of the glass and hold the plant securely in place while allowing water to flow through the roots.

You can fill these baskets with LECA (lightweight expanded clay aggregate) or lava rock to provide a substrate for the roots to grip.

The DIY Egg Crate Method

If you are on a budget, a piece of plastic “egg crate” (light diffuser) from a hardware store works wonders.

You can cut it to fit the back of your tank and zip-tie your plant stems directly to the grid.

Over time, the roots will weave through the mesh, creating a living wall of filtration that is nearly invisible once the foliage fills in.

Suction Cups and Fishing Line

For smaller cuttings like Pothos or Wandering Jew, a simple suction cup with a built-in clip or some clear fishing line can do the trick.

This is a great “low-profile” option if you don’t want bulky equipment distracting from the beauty of your aquascape.

Lighting Requirements for Emerged Growth

While your aquatic plants depend on your aquarium light, your emerged plants need a different strategy.

Standard aquarium lights are designed to penetrate water, but they might not provide enough coverage for plants growing 2 feet above the tank.

Utilizing Natural Sunlight

If your tank is near a window, your emerged plants will likely thrive on the ambient light alone.

However, be careful with direct sunlight, as it can cause algae blooms on the glass where the light hits the water.

Dedicated Grow Lights

For the best results, I recommend adding a small LED grow light or a high-output desk lamp positioned above the foliage.

Look for a light with a “full spectrum” or a color temperature around 6500K to mimic natural daylight.

This will ensure your plants that can grow out of aquarium setups stay bushy and green rather than becoming “leggy” and reaching for the nearest window.

Managing the Transition: From Soil to Water

Most plants you buy at a nursery are grown in soil, and moving them directly into water can be a shock to their system.

The roots that grow in soil are structurally different from “water roots,” and the plant will need time to adapt.

The Cleaning Process

First, gently remove the plant from its pot and shake off as much dirt as possible.

Submerge the root ball in a bucket of room-temperature dechlorinated water and massage away the remaining soil.

Be thorough—any leftover organic matter will rot in your tank and could cause a spike in nitrite levels.

The “Melt” Phase

Don’t panic if your plant drops a few leaves in the first two weeks!

This is a natural process where the plant redirects its energy from its old soil roots to growing new, fuzzy water roots.

Once you see those white, healthy root tips appearing, you’ll know the plant has successfully transitioned.

Maintenance and Pruning Tips

Just because these plants are easy to grow doesn’t mean they are “set it and forget it.”

Regular maintenance will keep your riparium looking sharp and prevent the plants from “choking out” your aquatic species.

Pruning the Roots

In a nutrient-rich aquarium, roots can grow incredibly fast and may eventually take over the entire back of the tank.

Don’t be afraid to take a pair of aquascaping shears and trim the roots back by 20-30% every few months.

This encourages the plant to stay manageable and prevents the roots from trapping too much debris or trapping small fish.

Cleaning the Leaves

Since these plants are in your living space, they will inevitably collect dust.

A dusty leaf cannot photosynthesize efficiently, so wipe them down with a damp cloth once a week.

Avoid using leaf shine products, as the chemicals could potentially drip into the water and harm your shrimp or sensitive fish.

Fertilizing Your Emerged Plants

While these plants are excellent at sucking up fish waste, they may eventually run out of specific micronutrients like Iron or Potassium.

If you notice the new leaves are turning yellow or looking pale, it’s a sign that your fish alone aren’t providing enough “food.”

I recommend using a comprehensive liquid fertilizer like Seachem Flourish or Easy Green.

Since the plants are growing fast in the air, they will appreciate a consistent dosing schedule to keep their colors vibrant.

Best Aquatic Plants That Can Grow Emersed

We’ve talked about houseplants, but many traditional “aquarium plants” also love to break the surface.

In nature, many of the plants we buy in little pots are actually amphibious, meaning they grow half-in and half-out of the water.

Anubias and Java Fern

If you let your water level drop slightly or use a tall piece of driftwood, Anubias and Java Fern will grow beautiful emersed leaves.

These leaves are typically much thicker and tougher than their submerged counterparts.

The best part? When these plants grow above water, they are much more likely to flower!

Cryptocoryne

While usually kept fully submerged, many Crypts thrive in a “high humidity” emerged environment.

If you have a lid on your tank that keeps the air moist, you can grow these in a shallow “riparium” style tray.

Their emerged forms often have striking textures and colors that you’ll never see when they are underwater.

Common Challenges and How to Solve Them

No hobby is without its hurdles, and growing plants that can grow out of aquarium environments is no different.

Here are the three most common issues I see hobbyists face and how to fix them quickly.

1. Root Rot

If the roots look brown, slimy, and smell like sulfur, you have root rot.

This usually happens because there isn’t enough water circulation around the roots.

Make sure your plants are placed in an area with some water movement, or use a more porous planting medium like lava rock.

2. Terrestrial Pests

Aphids, spider mites, and mealybugs can sometimes find their way onto your emerged foliage.

Since you have fish in the water, you cannot use standard pesticides.

Instead, use a gentle mix of water and a tiny drop of organic neem oil, or simply dunk the affected leaves underwater for a few minutes to drown the pests.

3. Yellowing Leaves (Chlorosis)

As mentioned earlier, this is usually a nutrient deficiency.

If you have a low bioload (not many fish), your plants might actually be “starving.”

Increase your feeding slightly or add a liquid fertilizer to ensure the plants have the nitrogen they need to stay green.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I grow any houseplant out of my aquarium?

No, not every plant likes “wet feet.” Succulents and cacti will rot almost instantly. Stick to tropical plants that naturally grow in bogs or near riverbanks.

Will these plants steal nutrients from my aquatic plants?

They are definitely “nutrient hogs,” but in most tanks, there are more than enough nitrates to go around. If your submerged plants start to struggle, simply increase your fertilization.

Do I need a CO2 system for emerged plants?

No! That is the beauty of this method. These plants get all the CO2 they need directly from the air in your room.

Can I use these plants in a shrimp tank?

Absolutely. Shrimp love grazing on the biofilm that grows on the roots of Pothos and Peace Lilies. Just ensure you wash the plants thoroughly before adding them to remove any nursery pesticides.

How do I stop my cat from eating the plants?

This is a common issue! Many of these plants (like Pothos and Peace Lilies) can be toxic to pets if ingested. If you have curious cats, stick to pet-safe options like Spider Plants or keep the tank in a room they can’t access.

Conclusion

Incorporating plants that can grow out of aquarium setups is one of the most rewarding ways to level up your fish-keeping game.

Not only does it create a stunning, high-end look for your home, but it also provides your fish with a much cleaner and more stable environment.

Whether you start with a simple Pothos cutting or build a complex riparium with multiple species, the benefits are undeniable.

Don’t be afraid to experiment—every tank is different, and finding the perfect balance is part of the fun!

So, grab a cutting, secure it to your rim, and watch as your aquarium transforms into a thriving, lush ecosystem.

Happy fish keeping!