Plants For African Cichlids – The Ultimate Guide To A Lush,
Most hobbyists will tell you that keeping a planted tank with Rift Lake inhabitants is an impossible dream. You’ve likely heard stories of beautiful green scapes being reduced to floating shreds within minutes of adding a few Mbuna.
I agree that it can be incredibly frustrating to watch your hard work become an expensive salad for your fish. However, I promise you that with the right species and a few “insider” tricks, you can absolutely maintain a thriving, green environment.
In this guide, we are going to preview the toughest plants for african cichlids, how to secure them against diggers, and how to balance your water chemistry for both fish and foliage. Let’s dive into the secrets of the “Cichlid-proof” garden!
The Challenge: Why African Cichlids and Plants Usually Clash
To succeed, we first have to understand our “adversaries.” African Cichlids, particularly those from Lake Malawi and Lake Tanganyika, are famous for two behaviors: digging and grazing.
In the wild, many species (like the Mbuna group) are “aufwuchs” feeders. This means they spend their entire day picking algae and small organisms off of rocks with their specialized teeth.
When you introduce soft, delicious plants into their territory, they don’t see a decoration; they see a 5-star buffet. If they aren’t eating the leaves, they are likely excavating the substrate to build a spawning pit, uprooting your plants in the process.
The Water Chemistry Hurdle
Beyond the physical damage, there is the issue of water parameters. Most aquarium plants prefer slightly acidic to neutral water with low mineral content.
African Cichlids, on the other hand, require a high pH (7.8–8.6) and high carbonate hardness (KH). This alkaline environment can cause many common aquatic plants to “melt” or stop growing entirely.
The Solution: Durability and Adaptability
Success comes down to choosing plants with thick, leathery leaves that are unpalatable to fish. We also need to focus on “epiphytes”—plants that grow on rocks rather than in the sand.
By selecting species that can tolerate hard water and don’t need to be buried in the substrate, we bypass the two biggest hurdles in one go. Let’s look at the best candidates for the job.
The Best plants for african cichlids: Our Top Picks
Not all greenery is created equal when it comes to the rugged world of Rift Lake tanks. Here are the species I have personally found to be the most “Cichlid-resistant” over years of trial and error.
1. Anubias Species (The Gold Standard)
If there were a king of plants for african cichlids, it would be the Anubias. Specifically, Anubias barteri and Anubias nana are nearly indestructible.
These plants have thick, rubbery leaves that most cichlids find too tough to chew. They also feature a thick rhizome that should never be buried, making them perfect for wedging into rockwork.
I recommend using Anubias gigantea for larger tanks, as its massive leaves can provide excellent sightline breaks for aggressive males looking to claim a territory.
2. Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus)
Java Fern is another classic choice because it is literally bitter to the taste. Most fish will take one experimental nip and decide they’d rather wait for their pellets.
Like Anubias, Java Fern grows from a rhizome. You can attach it to your limestone or lace rock using a bit of fishing line or aquarium-safe superglue gel.
The “Windelov” variety, with its frilly tips, adds a beautiful texture to the tank that contrasts perfectly with the jagged rocks typically found in a Malawi setup.
3. Vallisneria (The Background Screen)
Vallisneria, specifically Vallisneria americana (Jungle Val), is one of the few rooted plants that can thrive in a Cichlid tank. It is native to various alkaline environments and loves hard water.
Its long, grass-like blades can reach the top of the tank, creating a beautiful “curtain” effect. While cichlids might occasionally nibble the tips, it grows fast enough to outpace most damage.
To keep them from being uprooted, I suggest planting them inside small terracotta pots buried in the sand, or surrounding the base with heavy river stones.
4. Crinum Calamistratum
This is a stunning, crinkled-leaf bulb plant from West Africa. It is incredibly tough and has a very unique, “alien” look with its wavy, dark green leaves.
The best part about Crinum is that it develops a massive, strong root system. Once it is established, even the most industrious digger will have a hard time moving it.
It is a slow grower, so be patient. However, its tolerance for high pH and its unappealing texture make it a top-tier choice for intermediate keepers.
5. Bolbitis Heudelotii (African Water Fern)
Commonly known as the African Water Fern, this plant is naturally found in fast-moving African waters. It has beautiful, translucent green leaves that look like something out of a forest.
It prefers a bit of water flow, so placing it near your filter outlet is a great idea. It attaches to rocks just like Java Fern, keeping it safe from the “interior decorators” in your tank.
Strategic Planting: How to Keep Your Cichlids from Uprooting Everything
Even the toughest plants for african cichlids won’t survive if they are constantly floating at the surface. You need a strategy to keep them anchored while your fish move sand around.
The Power of Cyanoacrylate (Superglue)
For epiphytes like Anubias and Java Fern, don’t even bother trying to weigh them down with lead strips. Use aquarium-safe superglue gel to bond the rhizome directly to your rocks.
Simply pat the rock and the plant’s rhizome dry with a paper towel, apply a small dab of glue, and hold them together for 30 seconds. This creates a permanent bond that no fish can break.
Pro Tip: Always use the “Gel” version of the glue, as the liquid version runs everywhere and can leave unsightly white streaks on your beautiful rocks.
The “Rock Fortress” Technique
If you are planting rooted species like Vallisneria or Cryptocorynes, you need to protect the “crown” of the plant. This is the area where the leaves meet the roots.
Dig a small hole, place your plant, and then surround the base with heavy, smooth stones about the size of a golf ball. This prevents the fish from getting close enough to the roots to dig them up.
By the time the fish try to move the heavy stones, they usually give up and go find a different spot to dig. It’s all about making the plant more trouble than it’s worth!
Using Hidden Pots
For those who want a truly clean look, you can use small plastic or terracotta pots. Fill the pot with a nutrient-rich substrate, add the plant, and cap it with heavy gravel.
You then bury the entire pot into your main sandy substrate. This keeps the roots protected and provides the plant with the nutrients it needs without the fish making a mess of the fertilizer.
Water Parameters and Fertilization in a Cichlid Tank
Maintaining a balance between the needs of your African Cichlids and your plants requires a bit of finesse. You are essentially managing two different biological systems at once.
Managing the pH and Hardness
African Cichlids need a pH of at least 7.8. Many plants struggle to take up nutrients at this level. To help them, ensure your Carbonate Hardness (KH) is high.
High KH acts as a buffer, keeping the pH stable. I recommend using crushed coral in your filter or as a substrate mix to naturally maintain these levels. Your plants will eventually adapt to these “hard” conditions.
The Role of Liquid Fertilizers
Since many of the best plants for african cichlids are water-column feeders (meaning they take nutrients from the water, not the soil), a good liquid fertilizer is essential.
Look for a “comprehensive” fertilizer that includes micronutrients like iron and manganese. Because Cichlid tanks often have high bioloads, you usually don’t need to add much Nitrogen or Phosphorus.
Be careful not to over-fertilize, though. High light and high nutrients in a Cichlid tank often lead to Black Brush Algae (BBA), which is the bane of many hobbyists’ existence.
Lighting and Maintenance for a Green Cichlid Habitat
Your lighting choice can make or break your planted Cichlid tank. Because these tanks are often deep and filled with heavy rocks, you need light that can penetrate to the bottom.
Choosing the Right Spectrum
Most African Cichlids look best under “cool” light (6500K to 8000K), which highlights their blues and yellows. Fortunately, this is also the sweet spot for plant growth!
I recommend a high-quality LED fixture with a built-in timer. Consistency is key. Aim for 6 to 8 hours of light per day. Any more than that, and you’ll likely face an algae bloom that your fish can’t keep up with.
Pruning and Cleaning
Even the toughest leaves will eventually collect detritus or algae. During your weekly water change, gently rub the leaves of your Anubias with your fingers to knock off any settling waste.
If you see a leaf that has been badly damaged or shredded, prune it immediately. Removing dying leaves encourages the plant to put its energy into new, stronger growth.
Don’t be afraid to get your hands in the tank! Regular maintenance is what separates a “surviving” tank from a “thriving” one.
Creating a Natural Hardscape with Plants
In a Cichlid tank, the rocks are the stars of the show, but plants are the “supporting actors” that make the scene look natural and established.
Breaking Up Sightlines
Aggression is a major factor in Cichlid keeping. Using tall plants like Vallisneria or large Anubias in the center of the tank can break the line of sight between dominant males.
If a fish can’t see its rival across the tank, it is much less likely to swim over and start a fight. This creates a peaceful environment where your fish can display their best colors.
Softening the “Rock Pile” Look
A pile of Texas Holy Rock or Slate can look a bit sterile. By tucking small clumps of Java Fern into the crevices, you mimic the way plants grow in the cracks of underwater cliffs in Lake Malawi.
This “greenery in the cracks” look is incredibly aesthetically pleasing and makes the aquarium feel like a true slice of nature rather than a glass box of rocks.
FAQ: Common Questions About plants for african cichlids
Can I keep Moss with African Cichlids?
Generally, I would advise against it. Most mosses (like Java Moss) are soft and easily torn apart. Cichlids will likely pick it to pieces within a few days, leaving a mess for your filter to clog on.
Will my fish eat the plants if I don’t feed them enough?
African Cichlids are opportunistic. Even if you feed them well, they may still nibble on plants out of boredom or instinct. Providing spirulina-based flakes can help satisfy their craving for greens.
What are the easiest plants for african cichlids for beginners?
If you are just starting out, stick with Anubias barteri and Java Fern. These are the most forgiving regarding water chemistry and are the least likely to be eaten by your fish.
Do I need CO2 injection for these plants?
No, CO2 is not necessary for the species listed in this guide. In fact, high levels of CO2 can sometimes lower your pH, which is counterproductive for a Cichlid tank. Stick to low-tech methods for the best results.
Can I use plastic plants instead?
You certainly can, but live plants provide biological filtration by absorbing nitrates. They also look much more natural and don’t collect “fake-looking” algae the way plastic ones do.
Conclusion
Successfully keeping plants for african cichlids is a rewarding challenge that elevates your hobby to the next level. It requires a shift in mindset—moving away from delicate “aquascaping” and toward “rugged gardening.”
By choosing the right species like Anubias and Java Fern, securing them with superglue, and protecting your rooted plants with a “rock fortress,” you can enjoy the best of both worlds. You get the vibrant, active personality of African Cichlids paired with the lush beauty of a planted aquarium.
Remember, every tank is a learning experience. Don’t get discouraged if your fish decide to redecorate a little bit at first. With patience and the right plant choices, you will eventually find the perfect balance for your Aquifarm setup!
