Money Plant Aquarium – Guide: Grow Pothos For Crystal Clear Water
Keeping your water parameters stable can often feel like a full-time job, especially when nitrates start to climb. If you are looking for a natural, beautiful, and incredibly effective way to purify your tank, a money plant aquarium setup is one of the best secrets in the hobby.
I know exactly how it feels to stare at a testing kit, frustrated by rising nitrate levels despite regular water changes. We all want that pristine, crystal-clear look while ensuring our finned friends are thriving in a safe environment.
In this guide, I promise to show you how to successfully integrate Epipremnum aureum (commonly known as Pothos or Money Plant) into your tank. We will cover everything from preparing your first cutting to managing massive root systems that act as biological filters.
A money plant aquarium is essentially a hybrid setup where the plant grows emersed, meaning its roots are submerged in the water while its leaves and vines grow out over the top of the tank.
This method is favored by experienced aquarists because it combines the beauty of indoor gardening with the practical benefits of advanced biological filtration.
Whether you are a beginner looking for an easy “win” or an intermediate keeper trying to balance a heavy bioload, this plant is your new best friend.
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Why Every Hobbyist Needs a Money Plant Aquarium
The primary reason most of us fall in love with the money plant aquarium concept is the sheer efficiency of nutrient export. Unlike submerged plants, which are limited by the CO2 available in the water, the Money Plant has access to unlimited CO2 from the air.
This allows it to grow much faster than your average Anubias or Java Fern. Because it grows quickly, it “eats” nitrates and phosphates at an astonishing rate, leaving very little fuel for annoying algae blooms.
Natural Nitrate Filtration
Nitrates are the end product of the nitrogen cycle. While they are less toxic than ammonia, high levels can stress fish over time. The roots of a Money Plant act like a biological sponge, soaking up these waste products to fuel new leaf growth.
Algae Prevention and Control
Algae thrives when there is an excess of light and nutrients. By introducing a fast-growing terrestrial plant, you are essentially outcompeting the algae. The Money Plant is much better at grabbing those nutrients first, leading to a much cleaner tank glass and decor.
Enhanced Aesthetics and “Riparium” Vibes
There is something incredibly soothing about seeing lush green vines cascading down the side of a glass tank. It creates a seamless transition between the aquatic world and your living space, giving your home a true “indoor jungle” feel.
Choosing the Right Variety for Your Tank
While most people refer to the Golden Pothos as the “Money Plant,” there are several varieties that work beautifully in an aquarium setting. Each offers a slightly different look to match your aquascape.
- Golden Pothos: The classic choice with heart-shaped green leaves splashed with yellow. It is incredibly hardy and grows the fastest.
- Marble Queen: This variety has heavy white variegation. It grows a bit slower but looks stunningly elegant against a dark aquarium background.
- Neon Pothos: Featuring bright, lime-green leaves, this variety can really “pop” and brighten up a dim corner of your room.
Don’t worry—this setup is perfect for beginners because all these varieties are nearly impossible to kill as long as you keep their roots wet and their leaves dry!
Step-by-Step: Setting Up Your Money Plant Aquarium
Ready to get started? Setting up your money plant aquarium doesn’t require expensive equipment or specialized substrate. In fact, you probably have most of what you need at home right now.
Step 1: Taking the Cutting
Find a healthy mother plant and identify a vine with at least 3-4 leaves. Look for the “nodes”—the little brown bumps on the stem. This is where the new roots will sprout. Use a sterilized pair of scissors to cut just below a node.
Step 2: Cleaning and Prepping
If you are taking a cutting from a plant that was growing in soil, you must be extremely thorough. Gently wash away every speck of dirt from the roots. Soil contains fertilizers and terrestrial bacteria that you do not want in your aquarium water.
Pro Tip: I prefer starting with fresh cuttings that have no soil roots at all. This allows the plant to grow “water roots” from the start, which are structurally different and more efficient at absorbing nutrients from the water column.
Step 3: Positioning the Plant
The most important rule: Only the roots and stem should be submerged. If you submerge the leaves, they will eventually rot, causing a spike in ammonia—the exact opposite of what we want!
You can secure the plant using several methods:
- Rim Hanging: Simply tuck the stem behind your HOB (Hang on Back) filter or use the aquarium rim to support the leaves.
- Suction Cups: Use airline tubing holders or specialized plant clips to keep the stem in place against the glass.
- 3D Printed Holders: Many hobbyists now use “Pothos holders” that clip onto the side of the tank, keeping the leaves perfectly dry.
Step 4: Acclimation Period
For the first two weeks, you might see very little growth. Don’t panic! The plant is busy diverting energy to its root system. Once you see white, fuzzy roots appearing, the “explosion” of top growth is just around the corner.
Essential Care and Maintenance
Even though this is a low-maintenance setup, a little bit of attention goes a long way in keeping your money plant aquarium looking its best. Here is how I manage my plants to ensure they don’t take over the entire room!
Lighting Requirements
The best part about this plant is that it doesn’t need your expensive aquarium lights. It can thrive on ambient room light. However, if your room is very dark, a simple LED desk lamp or a nearby window will provide plenty of energy for growth.
If the leaves start to lose their variegation and turn solid green, it usually means the plant wants a bit more light. If the leaves turn brown and “crispy,” they might be getting too much direct sunlight.
Nutrient Management
In a tank with a healthy fish population, you rarely need to fertilize your Money Plant. It will feast on the fish waste. However, in a very low-bioload tank (like a single Betta in a 10-gallon), the plant might eventually run out of nutrients.
Look for signs of chlorosis (yellowing leaves with green veins). This often indicates a potassium or iron deficiency. In this case, adding a liquid aquarium fertilizer once a week can help both your aquatic plants and your Money Plant thrive.
Pruning the Roots and Vines
Over time, the root system can become massive. While this is great for filtration, it can take up too much swimming space for your fish. Every few months, I take a pair of sharp scissors and trim the roots back by about 20-30%.
Similarly, the vines can grow several feet long. You can either let them trail down your aquarium stand or “train” them to grow along your walls using small clips. Pruning the tips of the vines will actually encourage the plant to grow “bushier” rather than just longer.
Compatibility: Fish and Shrimp in a Money Plant Setup
Most aquatic inhabitants love the addition of a money plant aquarium. The root structures provide a complex, naturalistic environment that mimics the riverbanks where many of our fish originate.
The Best Fish for This Setup
- Goldfish: Known as “nitrate factories,” goldfish benefit immensely from the heavy filtration of a Money Plant. Plus, they can’t eat the leaves since they are above water!
- Bettas: In the wild, Bettas live in vegetated areas. They love resting on the underwater roots near the surface.
- Cichlids: Many Cichlids are notorious for digging up and eating aquatic plants. Since the Money Plant is anchored outside the tank, it is “Cichlid-proof.”
Shrimp and Invertebrates
Shrimp keepers, listen up! The fine root hairs of a Money Plant are a magnet for biofilm. You will often see your Neocaridina or Amano shrimp hanging upside down on the roots, grazing happily all day long. It also provides excellent cover for tiny shrimp babies (shrimplets) to hide from predators.
Safety Concerns and Common Myths
Whenever we introduce terrestrial plants to an aquarium, questions about safety arise. Let’s clear up some of the common misconceptions regarding the money plant aquarium.
Is the Sap Toxic to Fish?
Money Plants contain calcium oxalate crystals. If you snap a stem and immediately throw it into a tiny bowl of water, the sap could theoretically irritate your fish. However, in a standard-sized aquarium, the dilution is so high that it is virtually never an issue.
My Advice: If you prune a vine, let the “wound” air dry (callous over) for 10 minutes before putting it back in the water. This prevents any sap from leaking into the tank.
Toxicity to Pets (Cats and Dogs)
This is a very important point for pet owners. While the plant is safe for your fish, it is toxic to cats and dogs if they chew on the leaves. If you have curious pets, make sure the vines are tucked away or hung high enough that they are out of reach.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Even the most “bulletproof” plants can run into issues. Here are the most common problems I see in a money plant aquarium and how to fix them.
Problem 1: The Leaves are Turning Yellow and Dropping
Cause: This is usually a sign of nutrient deficiency or a sudden change in environment.
Solution: Check your nitrate levels. If they are 0 ppm, your plant might be starving! Add a comprehensive liquid fertilizer. Also, ensure the leaves aren’t touching a cold window during winter.
Problem 2: The Roots are Turning Brown and Mushy
Cause: This is root rot, usually caused by poor water circulation around the roots or damage to the stem.
Solution: Trim away the mushy parts immediately. Ensure the roots are in an area with some water movement (near a filter outlet or air stone) to provide oxygen to the root zone.
Problem 3: Stunted Growth
Cause: Lack of light or extremely low temperatures.
Solution: Move the plant closer to a light source. Money Plants prefer temperatures between 65°F and 85°F. If your room is very cold, growth will slow down significantly.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I grow a Money Plant fully submerged?
No. While they can survive submerged for a few weeks, they are not true aquatic plants. Eventually, the leaves will lose their ability to “breathe,” and the plant will rot. Keep the leaves above the waterline!
Does a Money Plant replace the need for water changes?
While it significantly reduces nitrates, it does not replace water changes entirely. Water changes also replenish essential minerals and remove other waste products that plants don’t consume. Think of the plant as a supplement to your maintenance, not a replacement.
How fast do the roots grow?
In a nutrient-rich tank, you can see roots grow 1–2 inches per week! Within a few months, you will have a beautiful “root curtain” that your fish will love exploring.
Will the roots damage my aquarium silicone?
This is a common myth. Money Plant roots are soft and flexible. They do not have the strength or “teeth” to eat through aquarium-grade silicone. They will simply grow around it.
Can I use a Money Plant in a saltwater tank?
Unfortunately, no. Epipremnum aureum is a freshwater plant and will die almost instantly if exposed to saltwater. For saltwater “ripariums,” look into Mangroves instead.
Final Thoughts for the Successful Aquarist
Integrating a money plant aquarium into your home is one of the most rewarding “hacks” in the hobby. It bridges the gap between terrestrial gardening and fish keeping, providing a stunning visual while doing the heavy lifting of water purification.
I have used Pothos in almost every one of my tanks, from 5-gallon shrimp nano-tanks to large 75-gallon community setups. The results are always the same: healthier fish, fewer algae issues, and a more beautiful room.
If you haven’t tried it yet, go grab a cutting today. Your fish will thank you, and you’ll spend less time scrubbing algae and more time enjoying your beautiful aquatic ecosystem. Happy fish keeping!
Howard Parker
Founder & Author, AquiFarm
Howard Parker is a fishkeeping expert with over 20 years of experience. He is the founder and author of the Aquifarm located in Houston, TX 48. He has an academic degree in Agriculture Science. In addition to his professional pursuits, He is also an avid hobbyist of aqua pets, plants, and fish. Howard is dedicated to providing comprehensive information and resources for both novices and experienced fishkeepers, with a focus on professionalism and accuracy.
