How Fast Does Anubias Nana Grow: Your Complete Guide To Lush, Healthy
Have you ever added a beautiful, dark green Anubias Nana to your aquarium, expecting it to flourish, only to stare at it weeks later wondering if it’s grown even a single millimeter? You’re not alone. It’s one of the most common experiences in the aquascaping world.
Many aquarists label Anubias as an “impossibly slow grower” and feel a bit of frustration. But what if I told you that its slow, steady pace is actually one of its greatest strengths? And what if you could learn the secrets to ensuring that slow growth is healthy, consistent, and beautiful?
This comprehensive guide promises to demystify the Anubias Nana growth rate. We’ll dive deep into what to realistically expect, the exact factors you can control to encourage its best growth, and how to troubleshoot common issues. Get ready to transform your understanding and turn your Anubias into the thriving, low-maintenance centerpiece you’ve always wanted.
The Honest Truth: What is a “Normal” Anubias Nana Growth Rate?
Let’s set the record straight from the start: Anubias Nana is a genuinely slow-growing plant. This isn’t a sign that you’re doing something wrong; it’s the fundamental nature of this hardy epiphyte. Trying to make it grow like a stem plant is like trying to make a tortoise run like a cheetah—it’s just not going to happen!
So, what does “slow” actually mean? In a healthy, stable aquarium, you can expect your Anubias Nana to produce a new leaf every 3 to 5 weeks. That’s roughly one new leaf per month. If your plant is putting out one or two new, healthy leaves a month, give yourself a pat on the back. You’re doing great!
The real indicator of health isn’t just leaf production, but the growth of its rhizome. The rhizome is the thick, horizontal stem from which the leaves and roots sprout. A healthy Anubias will have a firm, green rhizome that slowly creeps and extends over the surface it’s attached to. This is the foundation of its growth.
This slow pace offers incredible benefits, making it a cornerstone of sustainable aquarium keeping. Here are a few reasons to embrace the slow life:
- Low Maintenance: You won’t be trimming it every week. Once you place it, you can largely leave it be for months, or even years.
- Incredible Durability: Its tough, waxy leaves are resistant to damage from most herbivorous fish. Say goodbye to shredded plant leaves!
- Algae Resistance: While not immune, its tough leaves are less prone to being overrun by algae compared to delicate, fast-growing plants, especially in low-light setups.
The 3 Pillars of Anubias Growth: Light, CO2, and Nutrients
While you can’t turn your Anubias into a speed demon, you can absolutely provide the perfect environment for it to thrive at its own comfortable pace. This complete how fast does anubias nana grow care guide focuses on three key areas.
Finding the Sweet Spot for Lighting
This is where many new aquarists make their first mistake. We often think “more light = more growth,” but for Anubias, the opposite is true. Anubias Nana evolved in the shaded streams and rivers of West Africa, often growing under the canopy of larger plants.
It thrives in low to moderate lighting. Exposing it to intense, direct light is a recipe for disaster. Why? Because the plant grows so slowly, it can’t utilize the high light energy fast enough. This excess light becomes a feast for algae, leading to the dreaded Green Spot Algae (GSA) or Black Beard Algae (BBA) covering its beautiful leaves.
Actionable Tips:
- Place your Anubias in a shaded spot in your tank—underneath a large piece of driftwood or taller plants.
- If you have a high-tech tank with strong lighting, use floating plants like Frogbit or Red Root Floaters to diffuse the light.
- Aim for a photoperiod (the time your lights are on) of 6-8 hours per day.
The CO2 Question: Necessary or Optional?
Here’s some good news: You do not need CO2 injection to grow Anubias Nana successfully. It’s a fantastic plant for low-tech setups and can thrive perfectly well without any supplemental carbon dioxide.
However, adding CO2 does provide a noticeable boost. Think of it as an accelerator. With pressurized CO2 or even a consistent daily dose of liquid carbon (like Seachem Excel), you might see a new leaf every 2-3 weeks instead of every 4-5. The leaves may also grow slightly larger and more robust.
For beginners, we recommend starting without it. Master the basics of lighting and fertilization first. If you later decide to venture into a high-tech setup, your Anubias will happily reap the benefits.
Nutrient Needs: Less is More
Anubias Nana is an epiphyte, which means it primarily absorbs nutrients from the water column through its leaves and roots, not from the substrate. This is a crucial piece of information!
It’s not a heavy feeder, but it does appreciate a balanced supply of micronutrients and macronutrients. A good quality, comprehensive liquid fertilizer is your best friend here. Look for one that contains Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium (NPK), as well as essential trace elements like iron, magnesium, and manganese.
Dose once or twice a week according to the instructions on the bottle, or perhaps even at half-strength to start. The key is consistency. Stable nutrient levels are far more important than high nutrient levels.
How to Maximize Growth: Anubias Nana Best Practices
Knowing the theory is one thing, but applying it is what makes all the difference. This section of our how fast does anubias nana grow guide covers the practical steps for success.
The Golden Rule: Never Bury the Rhizome!
If you take only one piece of advice from this article, let it be this: DO NOT BURY THE RHIZOME. We can’t stress this enough. The rhizome is the plant’s life force. Burying it in substrate will cut off its access to oxygen and light, causing it to suffocate and rot, which will inevitably kill the entire plant.
Instead, you must attach your Anubias to a hardscape element. Here’s how:
- Using Super Glue: The most popular method. Use a gel-type cyanoacrylate super glue. Dab a few small dots of glue on the dry hardscape (driftwood or rock), press the rhizome onto the glue for 30 seconds, and you’re done! It’s completely aquarium-safe.
- Using Thread or Fishing Line: A more traditional method. Simply tie the rhizome gently but firmly to your hardscape. Over several months, the plant’s roots will grow and anchor themselves, and you can then cut and remove the thread.
Water Parameters for a Happy Anubias
Anubias Nana is incredibly adaptable, which is another reason it’s so popular. It can tolerate a wide range of water parameters. However, for optimal health, aim for stability within these general ranges:
- Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)
- pH: 6.0-7.5
- Hardness (GH): 3-15 dGH
More important than hitting a specific number is keeping these parameters stable. Avoid large, sudden swings in temperature or pH, as this can stress any plant or animal in your tank.
The Power of Propagation: Creating More Plants
One of the most rewarding aspects of keeping Anubias is how easy it is to propagate. This is a fantastic, eco-friendly how fast does anubias nana grow practice that allows you to fill out your tank or share with fellow hobbyists.
Once your rhizome is long enough (at least 3-4 inches), you can simply take a sharp, sterile razor blade or pair of scissors and cut it. Ensure each new section has at least 3-4 healthy leaves. That’s it! You now have two separate plants that you can attach elsewhere in your aquarium.
Common Problems with How Fast Anubias Nana Grow (And How to Fix Them)
Even the hardiest plants can run into trouble. Don’t worry—most issues are easy to diagnose and solve. Here are some of the most common problems with how fast Anubias Nana grow.
Battling Algae (Especially GSA and BBA)
Because its leaves are long-lasting and slow-growing, Anubias is a prime target for stubborn algae like Green Spot Algae (GSA) and Black Beard Algae (BBA). The cause is almost always an imbalance in light, CO2, or nutrients.
The Fix: Reduce your lighting intensity or duration first. Ensure your nutrient dosing is consistent. For stubborn spots, you can perform a spot treatment by turning off your filter, drawing a small amount of liquid carbon or 3% hydrogen peroxide into a pipette, and applying it directly to the affected leaves. Wait 10-15 minutes before turning the filter back on.
Diagnosing Yellowing Leaves (Anubias Chlorosis)
If new leaves are coming in pale or old leaves are turning yellow, it’s typically a sign of a nutrient deficiency. Yellowing between the veins often points to an iron or magnesium shortage, while overall yellowing can indicate a lack of nitrogen.
The Fix: Start using a comprehensive liquid fertilizer if you aren’t already. If you are, consider slightly increasing the dosage or frequency. A healthy, balanced nutrient column is the best defense.
The Dreaded Rhizome Rot
If your plant’s leaves are falling off and the base feels soft or mushy, you’re likely dealing with rhizome rot. As we covered, this is almost always caused by the rhizome being buried in the substrate.
The Fix: Act quickly! Remove the plant from the tank. With a sterile blade, cut away any soft, brown, or mushy parts of the rhizome until you are left with only firm, green tissue. Then, re-attach the healthy portion to a rock or piece of driftwood correctly.
Frequently Asked Questions About Anubias Nana Growth
Why is my Anubias Nana not growing at all?
A complete stall in growth usually points to a significant issue. First, check that the rhizome is not buried. Second, ensure it’s receiving some light (not total darkness) and that your water parameters are stable. Finally, a complete lack of nutrients in the water can cause it to go dormant. Try adding a quality liquid fertilizer.
Can I speed up Anubias Nana growth significantly?
You can encourage its healthiest growth rate, but you cannot change its fundamental nature. Adding CO2 and maintaining perfect nutrient levels and lighting will give you the fastest growth possible for the species—perhaps a new leaf every 2-3 weeks—but it will never be a “fast” plant. Embrace its steady pace!
How long does it take for Anubias Nana to attach to driftwood?
It can take several months for the fine, white anchor roots to fully grip onto a surface. Be patient! Even after the thread or glue is no longer needed, the roots will continue to wrap and secure the plant, creating a beautiful, natural look. This process can take anywhere from 3 to 8 months.
Do I need special substrate for Anubias Nana?
No, not at all. Since Anubias Nana is an epiphyte that should be attached to hardscape, the type of substrate you use in your aquarium is completely irrelevant to its health and growth. You can use sand, gravel, or a nutrient-rich aquasoil—your Anubias won’t mind either way.
Embrace the Pace and Enjoy the Journey
Understanding how fast does anubias nana grow is less about chasing speed and more about cultivating patience and stability. This resilient little plant teaches us one of the most valuable lessons in aquascaping: that slow, consistent progress leads to breathtaking, long-lasting beauty.
By providing low-to-moderate light, stable water conditions, and a consistent supply of nutrients, you are giving it everything it needs. Remember the golden rule—never bury the rhizome—and you will avoid the most common pitfall.
So, relax and enjoy the process. Watch as your Anubias Nana slowly but surely settles in, sending out new roots and unfurling one perfect, deep green leaf at a time. It’s a timeless centerpiece that, with the right care, will grace your aquarium for many years to come.
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