Best Live Plants For Cichlids – A Guide To Creating A Resilient Scape
If you have ever tried to keep a lush, green planted tank with cichlids, you know the struggle: you wake up to find your carefully placed crypts floating at the surface or your delicate ferns shredded to pieces. Many hobbyists believe that cichlids and plants are natural enemies, but that’s only half the story.
The truth is, keeping the best live plants for cichlids is entirely possible—you just need to know which species are tough enough to survive the cichlid lifestyle. Whether you are keeping high-energy African Mbuna or peaceful South American Eartheaters, there is a way to achieve that natural, thriving look without constant replanting.
In this guide, I will share the secrets to selecting hardy vegetation that can withstand the digging, rearranging, and occasional snacking habits of your cichlids, helping you build a display that is as durable as it is beautiful.
Understanding the Cichlid Temperament
Before choosing your flora, you must understand your fish. Cichlids are notorious for two main behaviors: digging and grazing.
Some species, like Oscars or large South American cichlids, will uproot anything that isn’t anchored down. Others, like Mbuna from Lake Malawi, are biological lawnmowers that will eat almost any soft-leafed plant they encounter.
To succeed, you need to shift your strategy from “delicate aquascaping” to “durable botanical construction.”
The Role of Plant Resilience
When selecting species, look for plants with thick, fibrous leaves or a bitter taste that fish find unappealing.
Avoid delicate stem plants like Hemianthus callitrichoides or Cabomba, which will be shredded or uprooted within hours. Instead, focus on epiphyte species and robust rhizome plants that can be attached to hardscape rather than buried in the substrate.
Top Selections: The Best Live Plants for Cichlids
When I get asked about the best live plants for cichlids, my answer is always the same: start with plants that don’t need the substrate. By moving your greenery onto rocks and driftwood, you effectively bypass the “excavation” problem entirely.
Anubias: The Indestructible Choice
Anubias barteri and its many varieties (like nana or congensis) are the gold standard for any cichlid tank.
These plants have thick, leathery leaves that most fish find unpalatable. Because they grow from a rhizome, they should never be buried in the gravel. Simply use a bit of fishing line or cyanoacrylate gel (super glue) to attach them to your hardscape.
Java Fern: The Ultimate Survivor
Like Anubias, the Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus) is an epiphyte. It is incredibly hardy and tolerates a wide range of water conditions, which is helpful given that many cichlids prefer harder, more alkaline water.
The dark green, textured leaves provide excellent hiding spots for subordinate fish, reducing aggression in your tank.
Cryptocoryne: The Rooted Exception
If you must have rooted plants, Cryptocoryne wendtii is your best bet. While your cichlids might tug at them occasionally, these plants have a very strong, extensive root system once established.
Once they get comfortable in your substrate, they are surprisingly difficult for even a persistent cichlid to pull up. Just be prepared for a bit of “melting” when you first introduce them to the tank.
Strategic Planting Techniques
Even with the right species, your technique matters. You aren’t just planting; you are building a defense system.
Use Rock Barriers
If you want to plant in the substrate, place large, heavy rocks around the base of the plant. This prevents the cichlids from digging underneath the root ball.
Think of it as creating a “rock fortress” for your plants. The fish might nudge the rocks, but they won’t be able to get to the roots to pull the plant out.
Attachment vs. Planting
Always favor attachment over planting whenever possible. Using driftwood as a host for your plants is a win-win: the wood looks natural, and the plants stay safely out of reach of digging fins.
If you use super glue, ensure you use a gel-based variety and only apply it to the rhizome—never the leaves. Wait a few seconds for it to set before placing it back into the tank.
Lighting and Nutrient Considerations
Many of the best live plants for cichlids are relatively slow-growing. This is a double-edged sword.
Because they grow slowly, they don’t require high-intensity lighting or massive amounts of CO2. In fact, low-light conditions are often better because they prevent algae from coating the slow-growing leaves of your Anubias.
Managing Algae Growth
Cichlid tanks often have high nitrate levels due to the bioload these fish produce. This is a recipe for algae.
- Reduce Light Duration: Keep your lights on for 6-8 hours a day, not 12.
- Add Floating Plants: Species like Salvinia or Amazon Frogbit are excellent at soaking up excess nitrates, which helps starve out the algae that would otherwise settle on your main plants.
Addressing Potential Problems
Even with the perfect setup, you may run into a few bumps in the road. Don’t worry—most of these are common and easily fixed.
The “My Fish Are Eating My Plants” Problem
If your fish are constantly grazing, your plants might be lacking in their diet. Try supplementing your cichlids’ meals with high-quality veggie-based flakes or blanched zucchini. A well-fed fish is less likely to view your aquarium plants as a salad bar.
The “Floating Plant” Syndrome
If a plant keeps getting uprooted, accept that the fish have claimed that territory. Move the plant to a different spot or secure it more firmly with a larger rock.
Sometimes, we have to let the fish “aquascape” a little bit!
Frequently Asked Questions
Are there any plants cichlids won’t eat?
Most cichlids avoid plants with thick, tough, or bitter-tasting leaves. Anubias, Java Fern, and African Bolbitis are generally ignored because of their texture.
Do I need to add fertilizer for these plants?
Since many of these are slow growers, they don’t need heavy fertilization. However, a liquid fertilizer once a week can help maintain vibrant color, especially if your tap water is low in essential minerals.
Can I keep live plants with aggressive African Cichlids?
Yes, but you must focus entirely on epiphyte plants attached to rocks. Mbuna are notorious for digging, so any plant with roots in the substrate will likely be destroyed.
How do I stop my cichlids from digging up my plants?
Use “cichlid-proof” planting methods, such as weighing down roots with heavy stones or attaching plants to drift wood. Increasing the amount of rockwork in the tank can also satisfy the fish’s urge to rearrange things without them focusing on the plants.
Conclusion
Bringing live plants into a cichlid aquarium adds a layer of depth and natural beauty that plastic decor simply cannot match. While it requires a bit of planning, choosing the best live plants for cichlids—like Anubias and Java Fern—makes the process manageable and rewarding.
By working with your fish’s natural behaviors rather than fighting against them, you can create a stable, flourishing environment. Start small, be patient with your fish, and enjoy the process of watching your underwater world grow.
Happy fish keeping, and may your plants always stay rooted!
