Anubis Aquarium Plant – The Ultimate Care Guide For A Lush Tank

Keeping a beautiful tank shouldn’t feel like a chore. If you’ve been looking for a way to add deep greens and hardy texture to your underwater world, the anubis aquarium plant is likely exactly what you need.

Many hobbyists struggle with plants that melt or require expensive lighting setups. You want a vibrant, healthy aquarium without the constant stress of complex maintenance, and that is exactly what this guide will help you achieve.

In this article, we will cover everything from proper planting techniques to troubleshooting common leaf issues. By the end, you’ll know exactly how to use this versatile species to create a professional-looking aquascape.

Understanding the Versatile anubis aquarium plant

The anubis aquarium plant (scientifically known as Anubias) is often called the “king of low-light plants.” Originating from the riverbanks of West Africa, it has adapted to survive in shaded areas and even out of water.

This plant is unique because it is an epiphyte. In nature, it clings to rocks and submerged wood rather than rooting in the mud, which makes it incredibly flexible for aquarium design.

One of the reasons it is so beloved by beginners is its tough, leathery leaves. These leaves are thick enough to withstand the nibbling of many herbivorous fish that would usually destroy softer plants.

The Importance of the Rhizome

The most critical part of this plant’s anatomy is the rhizome. This is the thick, horizontal green stem from which both the leaves and the roots grow.

Think of the rhizome as the “engine” of the plant. If this part is healthy, the plant can survive almost anything, but if it is buried or damaged, the plant will quickly rot.

Always ensure the rhizome is exposed to fresh water flow. This allows the plant to absorb nutrients directly from the water column through its roots and skin.

Choosing the Right Variety: From Nana to Gigantea

Not all of these plants are created equal. Depending on your tank size, you might want a tiny foreground accent or a massive background centerpiece.

The most popular variety is Anubias barteri var. nana. It stays relatively small, making it perfect for “nano” tanks or for tucking into crevices in a larger display.

If you want something even smaller, look for “Petite.” This variety has leaves no larger than a fingernail and is a favorite for shrimp keepers who love detailed aquascaping.

Mid-Sized and Large Options

For those with larger aquariums, Anubias afzelii or Anubias hastifolia provide longer, arrow-shaped leaves that can reach toward the surface.

Then there is the Anubias gigantea. As the name suggests, this plant can grow quite large, with leaves that can eventually emerge from the top of an open-topped tank.

Mixing different varieties creates a natural, layered look. Use the smaller types on rocks in the front and the larger types attached to driftwood in the back.

How to Plant and Mount Your Anubis Correctly

The biggest mistake beginners make is burying the anubis aquarium plant in the substrate. If you bury the rhizome in gravel or sand, it will suffocate and die within weeks.

Instead, you should “mount” the plant. This means attaching it to a hard surface like a piece of bogwood, a lava rock, or even a ceramic decoration.

Over time, the white roots will wrap themselves around the object, anchoring the plant firmly in place. This makes it very easy to move your decor around without uprooting everything.

Methods for Attachment

The easiest way to attach your plant is using Cyanoacrylate gel (often sold as “aquarium glue”). Simply put a small dab on the rhizome and press it against a dry spot on your rock for 30 seconds.

If you prefer a more traditional method, you can use fishing line or dark cotton thread. Wrap the line gently around the rhizome and the rock, being careful not to cut into the plant’s tissue.

After a few months, the plant will be naturally attached. If you used cotton thread, it will eventually dissolve, leaving the plant perfectly anchored by its own roots.

Ideal Water Parameters and Lighting for Thriving Growth

One of the best things about the anubis aquarium plant is its resilience. It can thrive in a wide range of water conditions, but it does have its preferences.

It prefers a temperature between 72°F and 82°F (22°C – 28°C). This makes it compatible with almost all tropical fish, from Betas to Discus.

The water hardness isn’t a major factor, though it appreciates a pH between 6.0 and 7.5. As long as your water is clean and stable, this plant will be happy.

Lighting Requirements

In the wild, these plants grow under the canopy of the rainforest. This means they are adapted to low-to-medium light levels in the aquarium.

Too much light can actually be harmful. High-intensity lighting often leads to Green Spot Algae growing directly on the slow-growing leaves, which can block photosynthesis.

If you have a high-tech tank with bright lights, try placing your Anubis in the shadow of a larger plant or under an overhanging piece of driftwood to keep it healthy.

Common Challenges: Algae, Melting, and Yellow Leaves

Even the hardiest plants face issues. Because this plant grows so slowly, it doesn’t “outrun” algae like fast-growing stem plants do.

Green Spot Algae (GSA) is the most common nuisance. It appears as hard, circular green spots on the leaves. You can gently rub this off with your thumb or a soft toothbrush during water changes.

If you see the leaves turning yellow, it is often a sign of a nutrient deficiency, specifically iron or potassium. Adding a high-quality liquid fertilizer once a week usually fixes this.

Dealing with “Melting”

If you just bought your plant and the leaves are falling off, don’t panic! This is often called “melting.” It happens when the plant is moving from one environment to another.

Many nurseries grow these plants “emersed” (out of water). When you submerge them, the old leaves die so the plant can grow new, submersed-adapted leaves.

As long as the rhizome remains firm and green, the plant is alive. Simply trim away the dead leaves and wait for new growth to appear from the tip of the rhizome.

Best Tank Mates for an Anubis-Heavy Setup

Because the anubis aquarium plant has such tough leaves, it opens up a world of possibilities for tank mates that usually aren’t “plant-friendly.”

African Cichlids are notorious for digging up plants and eating them. However, because Anubis is glued to rocks, they can’t dig it up, and the leaves are too tough for them to enjoy eating.

Goldfish are another great candidate. While they will devour thin-leaved plants like Hornwort, they usually leave Anubis alone after a few experimental nibbles.

Shrimp and Snails

Freshwater shrimp, like Cherry Shrimp or Amano Shrimp, love these plants. They spend all day grazing on the biofilm and tiny algae particles that settle on the broad leaves.

Snails, such as Nerite or Mystery snails, are also excellent companions. They act as a “cleaning crew,” keeping the leaves free of algae without damaging the plant itself.

If you want a low-maintenance community tank, pairing this plant with a school of Tetras or Rasboras creates a stunning, peaceful aesthetic that requires very little work.

Propagation: How to Grow Your Collection for Free

Once your plant has grown several inches and has plenty of leaves, you can easily propagate it. This is a great way to fill up your tank without spending more money.

To do this, you simply need a sharp pair of sterilized scissors or a razor blade. Locate a section of the rhizome that has at least three or four healthy leaves.

Make a clean cut through the rhizome. You now have two separate plants! The original plant will eventually sprout a new growing tip from the cut site.

Caring for New Cuttings

Treat the new cutting just like a full-grown plant. Attach it to a new rock or piece of wood using the methods we discussed earlier.

Avoid taking cuttings that are too small. If a piece of rhizome has no leaves, it has a much lower chance of survival because it cannot easily produce energy through photosynthesis.

Be patient! This plant is a slow grower. You might only see one new leaf every two to four weeks, but that slow growth is exactly what makes it so stable and easy to manage.

Frequently Asked Questions About Anubis Care

Can I plant Anubis in the sand?

You can, but only the roots should be in the sand. The horizontal green rhizome must stay above the substrate. If the rhizome is buried, it will rot and the plant will die.

Why is my Anubis blooming underwater?

Congratulations! This is a sign of a very happy plant. They produce a white flower called a “spathe.” It looks similar to a Calla Lily and can last for several weeks underwater.

Does Anubis need CO2 injection?

No, it does not require supplemental CO2. While it will grow faster and larger with CO2, it is perfectly capable of thriving in a standard “low-tech” aquarium setup.

How do I get rid of black beard algae on the leaves?

Black Beard Algae (BBA) is tough. You can treat it by “spot-dosing” with Seachem Flourish Excel or a diluted hydrogen peroxide solution using a syringe during a water change.

Is the anubis aquarium plant safe for all fish?

Yes, it is completely non-toxic. However, when you cut the rhizome, it can release small amounts of oxalic acid. While usually harmless, it’s best to do your pruning during a water change.

Conclusion

The anubis aquarium plant is truly a staple for any successful aquarist. Its ability to thrive in low light, its resistance to being eaten by fish, and its stunning architectural look make it a must-have species.

Remember the golden rule: never bury the rhizome. If you follow that one simple instruction and provide a stable environment, your plant will reward you with years of beautiful, deep green growth.

Whether you are setting up your very first 10-gallon tank or scaping a massive 125-gallon display, there is a variety of Anubis that will fit perfectly. So go ahead, grab some aquarium glue and a nice piece of driftwood, and start building your underwater forest today!

Don’t worry—this setup is perfect for beginners, and your fish will absolutely love the natural hiding spots and shade that these magnificent plants provide. Happy fishkeeping!

Howard Parker

Founder & Author, AquiFarm

Howard Parker is a fishkeeping expert with over 20 years of experience. He is the founder and author of the Aquifarm located in Houston, TX 48. He has an academic degree in Agriculture Science. In addition to his professional pursuits, He is also an avid hobbyist of aqua pets, plants, and fish. Howard is dedicated to providing comprehensive information and resources for both novices and experienced fishkeepers, with a focus on professionalism and accuracy.

Published: July 15, 2026Last updated: October 9, 2026Editorial PolicyReport a correction