Anubias Plants Aquarium – The Ultimate Guide To Low-Maintenance Beauty

Have you ever looked at those lush, green aquascapes and felt a bit intimidated by the complexity of CO2 systems and high-end lighting? You are certainly not alone in that feeling.

I promise you that creating a stunning underwater garden is much easier than it looks, especially when you start with the right species. Incorporating an anubias plants aquarium setup is the single best decision you can make for a stress-free and vibrant tank.

In this guide, I am going to walk you through everything from selecting the best varieties to the “golden rule” of planting them. By the end, you’ll have the confidence to transform your tank into a thriving aquatic sanctuary.

Why Every Beginner Needs an Anubias Plants Aquarium

If there were a “hall of fame” for hardy aquatic species, Anubias would be right at the top. These plants are the ultimate survivors of the aquatic world, thriving where others might wither away.

The beauty of an anubias plants aquarium lies in its incredible versatility and resilience. Whether you have a tiny shrimp bowl or a massive 100-gallon community tank, these plants fit right in.

They are known as epiphytes, meaning they don’t even need to be planted in traditional substrate. This opens up a world of creative possibilities for your hardscape and layout.

The Science of the Rhizome

The most important part of any Anubias plant is the rhizome. This is the thick, horizontal green stem from which both the leaves and the roots grow.

Unlike most plants that draw nutrients primarily from their roots in the soil, Anubias draws what it needs directly from the water column. This unique biology is what makes them so adaptable.

Understanding the rhizome is the key to keeping your plants alive for years. If you treat the rhizome with care, the plant will reward you with steady, beautiful growth.

Low Light, High Reward

One of the biggest hurdles for new hobbyists is lighting. Most high-tech plants require intense, expensive lights that can often trigger massive algae blooms if not balanced perfectly.

Anubias, however, thrives in low to medium light environments. In fact, they often do better in the shaded areas of your tank, tucked under a piece of driftwood or the canopy of taller plants.

This makes them perfect for simple LED setups that come standard with most aquarium kits. You don’t need to spend a fortune to see these plants flourish.

Popular Varieties of Anubias for Your Tank

Not all Anubias are created equal. While they share similar care requirements, their sizes and leaf shapes vary wildly, allowing you to layer your aquascape effectively.

Choosing the right variety for your specific tank size is essential. Let’s look at some of my personal favorites that I’ve grown over the years at Aquifarm.

Anubias Barteri var. Nana

This is the “classic” choice for most hobbyists. It stays relatively small, usually reaching about 3 to 4 inches in height, making it perfect for the foreground or midground.

Its teardrop-shaped leaves are a deep, waxy green. Because it is so compact, it provides excellent hiding spots for small fish and dwarf shrimp.

Anubias Barteri var. Petite

If you are working with a nano tank, Anubias Nana Petite is your best friend. It is a miniature version of the Nana, with leaves often no larger than a fingernail.

I love using these to create “trees” by gluing them to the branches of spider wood. The scale they provide makes a small tank look much larger and more detailed.

Anubias Coffeefolia

For those who want a bit more texture, Anubias Coffeefolia is stunning. Its leaves have a heavily ribbed or “quilted” appearance that catches the light beautifully.

New leaves often emerge with a reddish-brown tint before turning a rich, dark green. It grows a bit larger and taller, making it a fantastic midground focal point.

Anubias Hastifolia

If you have a larger aquarium, Anubias Hastifolia is a great choice. It features long, arrow-shaped leaves and can grow quite tall compared to its cousins.

It adds a sense of drama and height to the back corners of a tank. Just remember that even the larger varieties are slow growers, so patience is a virtue here!

The Golden Rule of Planting Anubias

If you remember only one thing from this guide, let it be this: Never bury the rhizome in the substrate. This is the most common mistake beginners make.

If the thick green horizontal stem is covered by sand or gravel, it will eventually rot. Once the rhizome rots, the entire plant will die, often quite quickly.

Instead, you want to keep the rhizome exposed to the water flow. The thin, white roots can be tucked into the substrate if you like, but the “main body” must stay above it.

How to Attach Anubias to Hardscape

The most natural way to display these plants is by attaching them to rocks or driftwood. This mimics how they grow in the wild, clinging to stones along riverbanks.

There are three main ways to do this successfully:

1. Fishing Line or Thread: Simply wrap a piece of clear fishing line or dark cotton thread around the rhizome and the rock. Over time, the roots will grip the surface.
2. Cyanoacrylate Gel (Super Glue): This is a secret weapon for aquarists. A small dab of gel super glue on the rhizome can be pressed onto a dry spot on your wood or rock. It is completely reef and fish-safe once cured.
3. Wedging: Sometimes, you can simply wedge the plant into a crack or crevice in your hardscape. If the fit is snug enough, the plant will eventually anchor itself.

Using Anubias in the Substrate

If you really want your Anubias on the “floor” of the tank, don’t worry—you can still do it! Just be careful with your technique.

I recommend tying the plant to a small pebble and then burying only the pebble and the long roots. This keeps the rhizome resting safely on top of the sand or gravel.

This method allows you to move the plant around easily if you decide to change your layout later. It’s a great way to experiment with your anubias plants aquarium design without stressing the plant.

Ideal Water Parameters and Care

While Anubias is “unkillable” in many eyes, providing the right environment will help it look its best. A healthy plant is much less likely to grow unsightly algae on its leaves.

These plants are very forgiving of water chemistry, but they do have a “sweet spot” where they truly thrive. Let’s break down the basics.

Water Temperature and pH

Anubias is a tropical plant, so it prefers temperatures between 72°F and 82°F (22°C – 28°C). This range covers almost all common community fish.

As for pH, they are very flexible. Anything from 6.0 to 7.5 is perfectly fine. They can even handle slightly harder water, which is great if you live in an area with “liquid rock” coming out of your tap.

The key is stability. While they can adapt to many conditions, sudden, massive swings in parameters can cause the leaves to “melt” as the plant tries to adjust.

Fertilization and CO2

Do you need CO2 for Anubias? The short answer is no. They grow perfectly well in low-tech tanks without any added carbon dioxide.

However, they do appreciate a little bit of liquid fertilizer. Since they take nutrients from the water, a weekly dose of an all-in-one fertilizer will keep the leaves vibrant.

Pay close attention to potassium. If you start seeing small pinholes in the older leaves, it is usually a sign that your tank is lacking potassium.

Lighting Requirements

As mentioned earlier, less is often more with Anubias. If your lights are too bright, you will likely struggle with Green Spot Algae (GSA) growing on the slow-moving leaves.

If you have high-powered lights for other plants, try to place your Anubias in the shadows of taller stem plants or under a piece of overhanging wood.

If you see the leaves turning yellow or transparent, it might actually be getting too much light. Aim for a “low to medium” intensity for about 6 to 8 hours a day.

Dealing with Common Problems

Even the easiest plants can run into trouble. Don’t panic if your plant doesn’t look perfect right away; usually, the fix is quite simple.

Being an observant aquarist is half the battle. By catching these issues early, you can save your anubias plants aquarium from any long-term damage.

Black Brush Algae (BBA)

This is the most common “villain” for Anubias owners. BBA looks like dark, fuzzy tufts growing along the edges of the leaves.

Because Anubias grows so slowly, algae has plenty of time to settle on the leaves. To fix this, check your water flow and ensure you aren’t overfeeding your fish.

A quick “bleach dip” (1 part bleach to 20 parts water) for 2 minutes, followed by a thorough rinse in dechlorinated water, can kill the algae without hurting the hardy leaves.

Rhizome Rot

If you notice the rhizome turning mushy or stinky, you are dealing with rot. This is usually caused by burying the plant or poor water circulation.

If you catch it early, you can sometimes save the plant by cutting away the soft, rotting parts with a sharp, sterilized blade.

Make sure the remaining healthy green rhizome is placed in an area with good water movement. This will help prevent the bacteria from spreading further.

Melting Leaves

When you first bring a plant home from the store, it might lose a few leaves. This is called “melting.”

Most nursery-grown Anubias are grown emersed (out of water) in high humidity. When you submerge them in your tank, they have to transition to submersed growth.

Don’t worry—this is normal! Just trim the dying leaves at the base. As long as the rhizome is firm and healthy, new underwater-adapted leaves will grow soon.

The Best Tank Mates for Anubias

One of the coolest things about Anubias is that its leaves are very tough and leathery. This makes it one of the few plants that can survive with “plant-eaters.”

If you’ve struggled to keep plants with boisterous fish, an anubias plants aquarium might be the solution you’ve been looking for.

Goldfish and Cichlids

Most goldfish will shred soft plants like Hornwort or Anacharis in minutes. However, they usually find Anubias leaves too tough to bother with.

The same goes for many African Cichlids. While they might dig up plants in the sand, they can’t do much to an Anubias plant that is securely glued to a heavy rock.

Shrimp and Snails

Dwarf shrimp, like Cherry Shrimp or Crystal Reds, absolutely love Anubias. The broad leaves provide a massive surface area for biofilm to grow.

You will often see your shrimp “grazing” on the leaves all day long. This actually helps the plant, as the shrimp keep the leaves clean of dust and early-stage algae.

Snails, particularly Nerite snails, are also great companions. They will glide over the leaves and eat any spot algae that tries to take hold, keeping the plant looking pristine.

How to Propagate Your Anubias

Once your plant is happy, it will eventually grow long enough that you might want to create “babies” for other parts of your tank or to share with friends.

Propagation is incredibly simple and satisfying. You don’t need any special equipment—just a sharp pair of scissors or a hobby knife.

1. Identify the Cut: Look for a section of the rhizome that has at least 3 or 4 healthy leaves and some roots.
2. Make the Snip: Cut cleanly through the rhizome. Avoid crushing the tissue; a sharp blade is essential here.
3. Re-attach: You now have two separate plants! Attach the new cutting to a different rock or piece of wood using the methods we discussed earlier.

Because they grow slowly, don’t expect to do this every week. However, over a few months, a single mother plant can easily provide enough starts to fill a small aquarium.

FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions

Can Anubias grow out of the water? Yes! Anubias are actually semi-aquatic. They thrive in terrariums or paludariums as long as their roots stay wet and the humidity is very high. This makes them great for “rimless” tanks where they can grow up and out of the surface.

Does Anubias need special substrate?
Not at all. Since they shouldn’t be buried, the type of substrate (sand, gravel, or soil) doesn’t matter for the Anubias itself. They are perfectly happy in “bare bottom” tanks as well.

Why is my Anubias flowering?
If you see a small white “spathe” (which looks like a tiny Calla Lily) growing from the rhizome, congratulations! Your plant is very happy. Anubias can flower entirely underwater, which is a beautiful sight to see.

Can I grow an anubias plants aquarium with goldfish?
Absolutely. As mentioned, the thick, fibrous leaves are generally unappealing to goldfish. Just make sure the plants are firmly attached to heavy hardscape so the goldfish don’t push them around while searching for food.

How fast does Anubias grow?
Very slowly. Depending on the variety and conditions, you might only see one new leaf every 2 to 4 weeks. This is actually a benefit for many, as it means less pruning and maintenance for you!

Final Thoughts on Your Anubias Journey

Starting an anubias plants aquarium is one of the most rewarding ways to enter the world of planted tanks. It removes the stress of high-tech maintenance while providing that lush, natural look we all crave.

Remember to keep that rhizome above the substrate, provide a little bit of shade, and be patient with its slow growth. Before you know it, you’ll have a stunning, deep-green masterpiece that your fish will love.

If you found this guide helpful, stick around Aquifarm for more tips on creating the perfect underwater ecosystem. Happy fishkeeping, and enjoy the tranquil beauty of your new Anubias garden!