Anubias Planted Tank – The Ultimate Guide To Low-Maintenance Aquascapes

Have you ever felt the frustration of watching a beautiful new aquatic plant turn into a transparent mush just days after putting it in your aquarium? You are definitely not alone.

Many hobbyists struggle with demanding “high-tech” plants that require expensive CO2 systems and intense lighting. If you want a lush, green environment without the constant headache, an anubias planted tank is the absolute best solution for your home aquarium.

In this guide, I am going to show you exactly how to select, plant, and maintain these incredibly resilient African evergreens. Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned pro, you’ll find the practical tips you need to create a stunning, thriving underwater garden.

Understanding Your Anubias Planted Tank Essentials

Anubias is often called the “plastic plant that grows” because of its thick, leathery leaves and nearly indestructible nature. Originating from the shaded streams and riverbanks of West Africa, these plants have evolved to survive in low-light conditions and fluctuating water levels.

The beauty of an anubias planted tank lies in its versatility. Unlike many other species, Anubias does not need to be buried in the sand or gravel to thrive.

In fact, burying them is the most common mistake I see new hobbyists make. These plants are epiphytes, meaning they naturally grow attached to rocks or fallen trees in the wild, drawing nutrients directly from the water column.

The Anatomy of the Plant

To succeed, you must understand the “rhizome.” This is the thick, horizontal green stem from which both the leaves and the roots grow. Think of the rhizome as the “heart” of the plant.

If you bury this rhizome under the substrate, it will suffocate and rot. Always keep the rhizome exposed to the water flow to ensure your plant stays healthy for years to come.

Choosing the Right Varieties for Your Scape

One of the reasons I love working with this genus is the incredible variety available. You can find everything from tiny leaves the size of a fingernail to massive broad-leafed giants.

Anubias Barteri var. Nana ‘Petite’

This is arguably the most popular variety for “nano” tanks or for adding fine detail to a larger layout. The leaves are small, dark green, and very dense. It’s perfect for detailing the crevices between rocks.

Anubias Coffeefolia

If you want texture, this is your plant. The leaves have a unique, ribbed appearance that looks similar to a coffee leaf. New growth often emerges in a beautiful reddish-brown hue before turning a deep, rich green.

Anubias Barteri var. Glabra

For those who prefer a more elegant, elongated look, the Glabra variety offers lance-shaped leaves. These work beautifully in the midground of a tank to provide a sense of movement and height without overwhelming the space.

How to “Plant” Without Substrate: The Secret to Success

Since we aren’t burying these plants, how do we keep them from floating away? This is where you can get creative with your anubias planted tank design.

You have three primary methods for securing your plants: tying, gluing, or wedging. Each has its own benefits depending on the look you want to achieve.

The Fishing Line or Thread Method

This is the traditional way. Use a clear fishing line or a dark cotton thread to gently tie the rhizome to a piece of driftwood or a textured rock. Over time, the roots will wrap around the surface, and you can eventually snip the thread away.

The “Super Glue” Hack

This is my personal favorite because it’s fast and effective. Use a cyanoacrylate-based super glue gel. Simply put a small dot of glue on the rhizome (avoiding the roots) and press it against your hardscape for 20 seconds.

Don’t worry—the glue is completely aquarium-safe once it hits the water. It makes aquascaping so much easier when you don’t have to struggle with slippery strings!

Wedging into Crevices

If you have porous rocks like Seiryu stone or Dragon stone, you can often just wedge the roots into a small crack. As long as the rhizome isn’t crushed, the plant will eventually anchor itself naturally.

Lighting and Water Chemistry for Vibrant Growth

One of the biggest benefits of an anubias planted tank is that you don’t need to spend hundreds of dollars on high-end LED lights. These plants are the kings of low-light environments.

Finding the “Sweet Spot” for Light

Too much light is actually the enemy of Anubias. Because they grow slowly, their leaves are prone to collecting Green Spot Algae (GSA) if the lighting is too intense. Aim for 6–8 hours of moderate light per day.

If you notice your leaves turning yellow or being covered in hard green dots, try lowering the intensity of your light or adding some floating plants like Frogbit to provide some natural shade.

Water Parameters and Fertilization

Anubias is very hardy, but it still appreciates stable conditions. They thrive in a temperature range of 72°F to 82°F (22°C to 28°C) and a pH between 6.0 and 7.5.

Since they take nutrients from the water, a liquid all-in-one fertilizer is much more effective than root tabs. I recommend a weekly dose of a comprehensive fertilizer to ensure they get enough potassium and iron.

Solving Common Challenges in an Anubias Planted Tank

Even though these plants are “low-maintenance,” they aren’t “no-maintenance.” You will occasionally run into a few hurdles, but don’t panic—they are usually easy to fix!

The most common issue is Rhizome Rot. This usually happens if the plant was buried or if it was damaged during shipping. If the rhizome feels mushy or smells bad, you need to act fast.

Take the plant out and use a sharp, sterilized pair of scissors to cut away the rotting section. As long as you have a small piece of healthy, firm rhizome left, the plant can often make a full recovery.

Dealing with Algae Growth

Because Anubias leaves stay on the plant for a long time, they can become a magnet for algae. If you see Black Brush Algae (BBA) or Green Spot Algae, don’t throw the plant away.

A quick Hydrogen Peroxide dip (3% concentration) can work wonders. Dip the leaves (not the roots) into the solution for about 30 seconds, then rinse in old tank water before putting it back. The algae will turn red or white and die off within a few days.

Best Tank Mates for Your Green Oasis

Anubias is a fantastic choice for almost any livestock. Its tough leaves mean that even notorious plant-eaters like Goldfish or Silver Dollars usually leave them alone.

The Perfect Betta Companion

If you keep a Betta fish, large-leafed varieties like Anubias barteri provide the perfect “Betta bed.” Bettas love to rest on the broad leaves near the surface to take a nap or catch a breath of air.

Shrimp and Invertebrates

Shrimp keepers love these plants because the dense root systems provide excellent hiding spots for baby shrimp. The leaves also provide a surface for biofilm to grow, which is the primary food source for Neocaridina and Caridina shrimp.

Propagation: How to Get Free Plants

The best part about an anubias planted tank is that it eventually pays for itself. Once your plant has grown a long rhizome with several leaves, you can propagate it easily.

Simply use a sharp blade to cut the rhizome into two or more sections. Pro tip: Make sure each section has at least 3–4 healthy leaves and a few roots. Each piece will then grow into a completely new plant!

I usually do my propagation during the monthly water change. It’s a great way to fill in bare spots in your aquascape or trade plants with local hobbyists in your area.

FAQ Section

Can I plant Anubias in sand?

You can, but only if you leave the rhizome above the sand. You can bury the long, thin roots to help anchor the plant, but the main horizontal stem must remain exposed to the water column to prevent rot.

Why are my Anubias leaves turning yellow?

Yellowing leaves, also known as chlorosis, usually indicate a nutrient deficiency. Specifically, a lack of iron or potassium is the most common culprit. Try increasing your liquid fertilizer dosage slightly.

Does Anubias need CO2?

No, it does not. While Anubias will grow slightly faster and look more robust with CO2 injection, it is one of the few plants that truly thrives in a low-tech environment without any added gas.

How fast does Anubias grow?

It is a very slow grower. You might only see one new leaf every 2 to 4 weeks depending on your tank conditions. Be patient—this slow growth is actually a benefit because it means less trimming for you!

Can Anubias grow out of the water?

Yes! These plants are amphibious. In a humid terrarium or a “paludarium” setup, they can grow perfectly well with their roots in the water and their leaves in the air. This makes them great for open-top tanks.

Conclusion

Building an anubias planted tank is one of the most rewarding ways to enjoy the aquarium hobby without the stress of difficult plant care. Their durability, variety, and stunning deep-green color make them a staple for a reason.

Remember the golden rule: Keep that rhizome above the substrate! If you follow that one simple step and provide moderate light, your Anubias will reward you with years of beauty and a healthy environment for your fish.

Don’t be afraid to experiment with different varieties and attachment methods. Whether you are gluing a tiny ‘Petite’ to a branch or letting a large ‘Barteri’ dominate your midground, you are creating a living work of art.

I hope this guide has given you the confidence to start your own lush, green sanctuary. Happy fish keeping, and enjoy the peace that a beautiful, low-maintenance tank brings to your home!