Anubias Planted Aquarium – The Ultimate Guide To A Lush Aquascape

Do you dream of a vibrant, green tank but feel intimidated by the complexity of high-tech setups? You are not alone, and I have some great news for you.

Keeping a stunning anubias planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding ways to enjoy the hobby without the stress of CO2 tanks and expensive lighting.

In this guide, I will show you exactly how to select, plant, and maintain these “unkillable” beauties to create a professional-looking scape that thrives for years.

The Magic of the Anubias Planted Aquarium

If you have ever felt frustrated by melting stems or finicky carpets, the anubias planted aquarium is your breath of fresh air.

These plants are known as epiphytes, meaning they don’t need to be buried in the substrate to survive.

In fact, they often prefer being attached to wood or rocks, drawing their nutrients directly from the water column.

This unique growth habit makes them incredibly versatile for aquascaping, allowing you to place greenery in the upper reaches of your tank.

Whether you are a beginner looking for your first plant or a pro building a low-tech masterpiece, Anubias is the backbone of a healthy tank.

They are slow-growing, hardy, and can tolerate a wide range of water parameters that would make other plants wither.

Choosing the Right Varieties for Your Setup

Not all Anubias are created equal, and choosing the right variety for your specific tank size is the first step toward success.

From the tiny “Petite” to the massive “Gigantea,” there is a leaf shape and size for every corner of your aquarium.

1. Anubias Barteri var. Nana

This is the classic choice for most hobbyists and is likely the variety you will see most often at your local fish store.

It features dark green, heart-shaped leaves that grow to about 2-4 inches, making it perfect for the midground.

2. Anubias Barteri var. “Petite”

If you have a nano tank or a shrimp colony, this is the plant for you. It is a miniature version of the Nana.

Its tiny leaves are perfect for creating a sense of scale, making a small tank look much larger than it actually is.

3. Anubias Coffeefolia

This variety is a personal favorite of mine because of its unique, ribbed texture that resembles a coffee leaf.

New growth often appears in a reddish-brown hue before turning a deep, rich green, adding a nice color contrast.

4. Anubias Hastifolia and Congensis

These varieties grow much taller and have elongated, arrow-shaped leaves that work beautifully in the background.

They provide excellent cover for shy fish and help break up the sightlines in larger displays.

The Secret to Success: How to Start Your Anubias Planted Aquarium

The most common mistake I see beginners make is burying the plant in the gravel like a traditional garden flower.

If you want your anubias planted aquarium to thrive, you must understand the anatomy of the rhizome.

The rhizome is the thick, horizontal green stem from which both the leaves and the roots grow.

The Golden Rule of Planting

Never bury the rhizome! If you bury this part of the plant under the substrate, it will eventually rot and the plant will die.

Instead, you should attach the rhizome to a piece of driftwood, a rock, or even a decorative ornament.

The roots can grow down into the substrate, but that thick horizontal stem must remain exposed to the water flow.

How to Attach Your Plants

There are three main ways to secure your Anubias so they stay exactly where you want them.

1. The Super Glue Method: This is the easiest way. Use a tiny dab of Cyanoacrylate based super glue gel on the rhizome and press it to the rock.

2. Fishing Line or Thread: You can gently tie the plant to the hardscape using clear fishing line or dark cotton thread.

3. Wedging: Sometimes, you can simply wedge the rhizome into a crack or crevice in a piece of dragon stone or spider wood.

Designing a Stunning Aquascape with Anubias

Creating a beautiful anubias planted aquarium is all about layering and using hardscape to your advantage.

Because these plants don’t need substrate, you can think vertically and create “floating” islands of green.

Using Driftwood as an Anchor

Driftwood provides the perfect organic surface for Anubias roots to grip onto over time.

I love using Manzanita or Mopani wood to create a “tree” effect, attaching Nana Petite to the branches.

This creates a lush, forest-like appearance that provides plenty of shade for your fish.

Creating Depth with Rockwork

Try using different sizes of Anubias to create a sense of perspective in your tank.

Place larger varieties like Anubias Barteri in the back corners and the tiny Petite varieties on rocks in the foreground.

This draws the eye through the tank and makes the environment feel more natural and established.

The “Low-Tech” Advantage

Anubias are the kings of low-light tanks, meaning you don’t need high-intensity LED bars that break the bank.

In fact, too much light can actually be a problem for these slow-growers, leading to algae issues on the leaves.

Water Parameters and Ideal Conditions

While Anubias is tough, it will look its best when you provide it with stable conditions and the right nutrients.

Don’t worry—they aren’t picky, but a little extra care goes a long way in preventing “melting” or yellowing leaves.

Temperature and pH

Anubias thrives in standard tropical temperatures ranging from 72°F to 82°F (22°C to 28°C).

They prefer a pH between 6.0 and 7.5, which covers almost all common community tank setups.

Lighting Requirements

Low to medium lighting is ideal. If your light is too strong, I recommend using floating plants like Frogbit or Salvinia to provide shade.

Shading the leaves is a pro-trick to keep them clean and free of the dreaded Black Brush Algae (BBA).

Fertilization Needs

Since they are water column feeders, a high-quality comprehensive liquid fertilizer is essential for a healthy anubias planted aquarium.

Look for a fertilizer that contains potassium and iron, as these are the most common deficiencies seen in slow-growing epiphytes.

If you notice small holes in the leaves, it is often a sign that your plants need more potassium.

Troubleshooting Common Anubias Problems

Even the easiest plants can run into trouble, but most issues in an anubias planted aquarium are easy to fix.

Being an observant keeper is half the battle; catching a problem early prevents it from spreading.

1. Black Brush Algae (BBA)

Because Anubias grows slowly, its leaves are a prime target for BBA, which looks like tufts of black hair.

To fix this, improve your water flow and ensure you aren’t overfeeding your fish, which can lead to excess phosphate.

You can also do a “spot treatment” with Seachem Excel or a 3% Hydrogen Peroxide solution during water changes.

2. Yellowing Leaves (Chlorosis)

If the leaves are turning yellow but the veins remain green, your plant is likely hungry for nutrients.

Increase your liquid dosing schedule slightly and ensure your nitrate levels are around 10-20ppm.

3. Rhizome Rot

If the rhizome feels mushy or the leaves are falling off at the base, it is likely rotting from being buried or poor flow.

Immediately remove the plant, trim away the mushy parts with sharp scissors, and re-attach it to a high-flow area.

The Best Tank Mates for Your Anubias

One of the best parts of an anubias planted aquarium is that the leaves are very tough and leathery.

This makes them resistant to many herbivorous fish that would normally shred softer plants like Amazon Swords.

1. Freshwater Shrimp

Cherry shrimp and Amano shrimp love to graze on the leaves of Anubias, keeping them free of biofilm and algae.

The dense leaf structure also provides a perfect hiding spot for baby shrimp to escape predators.

2. Goldfish and Cichlids

Most goldfish will leave Anubias alone because the leaves are too tough to chew.

The same goes for many African Cichlids, making Anubias one of the few plants that can survive in a Cichlid tank.

3. The Classic Betta

Bettas love wide-leafed varieties like Anubias Barteri because they act as natural “hammocks” near the surface.

Providing a broad leaf for your Betta to rest on is a great way to reduce their stress and mimic their natural habitat.

FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Do I need CO2 for an Anubias tank? A: No, Anubias grows perfectly fine without supplemental CO2. While it will grow faster with it, it is absolutely not required.

Q: How do I propagate my Anubias?
A: It’s easy! Simply use a sharp pair of aquascaping scissors to cut the rhizome into two or more pieces. Just make sure each piece has at least 3-4 leaves.

Q: Can Anubias grow out of the water?
A: Yes! They are amphibious. In a terrarium or a rimless tank, they can grow “emersed” as long as their roots stay wet and the humidity is high.

Q: Why are my new leaves smaller than the old ones?
A: This usually happens when the plant is adapting to new light levels or if there is a slight nutrient deficiency. Check your iron levels!

Q: Can I use super glue on wet plants?
A: Yes, super glue gel actually cures faster when it comes into contact with water. Just pat the rhizome dry with a paper towel before applying the glue.

Conclusion: Start Your Low-Tech Journey Today

The anubias planted aquarium is the ultimate solution for anyone who wants a beautiful, natural tank without the headache of high maintenance.

By remembering the golden rule—keep that rhizome above the substrate—you are already ahead of 90% of beginners.

These plants are patient, resilient, and incredibly beautiful when given just a little bit of care and the right placement.

So, head to your local shop, pick up a few varieties, and start gluing them to your hardscape. Your fish (and your stress levels) will thank you!

Remember, every great aquarist started with a single plant. Why not make yours an Anubias?

Happy fish keeping!