Anubias Nana Vs Java Fern – The Ultimate Guide To Choosing Your
Staring at a wall of lush green plants at your local fish store, feeling a little overwhelmed? You’re not alone. Choosing the right plants can feel like a bigger commitment than choosing your fish, especially when you’re just starting out.
You want something beautiful, something that will thrive without a science degree, and something that your fish will love. That’s where the two undisputed champions of the beginner aquarium world come in.
I’m here to help you navigate the classic showdown: anubias nana vs java fern. This isn’t just a list of facts; it’s a complete guide from one hobbyist to another, packed with tips I’ve learned over years of keeping tanks. I promise that by the end of this article, you’ll have the confidence to pick the perfect plant for your unique setup.
We’ll dive deep into their looks, care needs, the one golden rule you can’t break, and how to troubleshoot common problems. Let’s get your aquarium looking lush and green!
Meet the Contenders: A Quick Introduction
Before we pit them against each other, let’s get properly acquainted. While both are famous for being nearly indestructible, they bring very different vibes to an aquarium.
At the heart of both plants is a crucial part of their anatomy: the rhizome. Think of it as a thick, horizontal stem from which the leaves grow upwards and the roots grow downwards. Understanding the rhizome is the key to success with both of these plants, but more on that later!
Anubias Nana: The Sturdy Workhorse
Anubias barteri var. nana, or Anubias Nana as we all call it, is the tank of the plant world. It’s a short, stout plant with thick, waxy, and deep green leaves. Its leaves feel almost leathery to the touch.
It grows slowly and deliberately, anchoring itself firmly to whatever it’s attached to. It’s a fantastic foreground or midground plant, creating dense, low-lying bushes of green that add a real sense of depth and permanence to your aquascape.
Java Fern: The Graceful Giant
Microsorum pteropus, or Java Fern, is the elegant dancer. It features long, flowing, and textured leaves that sway gracefully in the current. The leaves are a lighter shade of green and have a distinct, slightly bumpy texture.
This plant grows taller and is perfect for creating a lush background or filling in midground space around hardscape. It adds a wonderful sense of motion and a wild, jungle-like feel to a tank.
The Ultimate Anubias Nana vs Java Fern Showdown: A Side-by-Side Comparison
Okay, introductions are over. It’s time to see how these two heavyweights stack up against each other. This detailed anubias nana vs java fern guide will help you decide which one fits your vision and your tank’s needs.
Appearance & Aquascaping Potential
Your choice here really comes down to the look you’re trying to achieve.
- Anubias Nana: Perfect for creating focal points. Its compact size makes it ideal for attaching to small pieces of driftwood or rocks in the foreground. You can tuck it into crevices or create a small “Anubias island.” Because it stays low, it won’t block the view of anything behind it.
- Java Fern: Best for creating a backdrop. Its height and flowing leaves are excellent for hiding filters and heaters. Attaching it to a large piece of driftwood can create a stunning, tree-like centerpiece that provides a dense forest for your fish to explore.
Lighting & CO2 Requirements
Here’s the best news: both are incredibly forgiving. This is a huge part of the benefits of anubias nana vs java fern.
Both plants are low-light champions. They thrive under standard aquarium LED lights and don’t need high-intensity setups. In fact, blasting them with too much light can be a bad thing, as it encourages algae to grow on their slow-growing leaves.
Neither plant requires CO2 injection. They are perfectly happy pulling the carbon they need from the water in a low-tech setup, making them a top-tier, eco-friendly anubias nana vs java fern choice for aquarists wanting a simple, sustainable tank.
Water Parameters & Temperature
Both Anubias and Java Fern are troopers when it comes to water conditions. They aren’t fussy and will adapt to a wide range of parameters, which is a relief for anyone who doesn’t want to constantly tinker with water chemistry.
- Anubias Nana: Prefers a pH between 6.0-7.5 and temperatures from 72-82°F (22-28°C).
- Java Fern: Prefers a pH between 6.0-7.5 and temperatures from 68-82°F (20-28°C).
As you can see, their needs overlap almost perfectly. They can happily coexist in the same community tank with most tropical fish, from bettas to tetras to corydoras.
Growth Rate & Propagation
If you’re looking for fast growth, neither of these is your plant. Their slow-growing nature is a feature, not a bug!
Anubias Nana is extremely slow-growing. You might see a new leaf sprout every month or so. This means it requires virtually no trimming and will maintain its shape for a very long time.
Java Fern grows a bit faster but is still considered a slow-grower. You’ll notice new fronds unfurling more regularly. You can also propagate it in a cool way: tiny new plantlets, complete with their own roots and leaves, will sometimes sprout directly from the tips or undersides of older leaves!
To propagate both, you can simply take a sharp, clean knife or pair of scissors and cut the rhizome. Just make sure each new piece has at least 3-4 healthy leaves attached. Then, you can attach these new sections elsewhere in your tank!
How to Plant Anubias and Java Fern: The One Golden Rule
Listen up, because this is the single most important piece of advice in this entire anubias nana vs java fern care guide. If you remember one thing, make it this: NEVER BURY THE RHIZOME.
The rhizome is the plant’s lifeline. If you bury it under your sand or gravel, it can’t breathe. It will inevitably rot, and the entire plant will fall apart and die. This is the #1 mistake beginners make, and it’s so easy to avoid!
Instead, these plants need to be attached to something. They are “epiphytes,” meaning they grow on other surfaces in nature, not in the substrate.
Step-by-Step Attachment Guide
Here are the best practices for getting your new plant settled in. It’s super easy!
- Choose Your Anchor: Pick a piece of driftwood, a lava rock, or any other aquarium-safe hardscape.
- Get Your Tools: You have two great options. You can use a thin fishing line or dark cotton thread to tie the plant on, or you can use a dab of aquarium-safe super glue (any brand of cyanoacrylate gel works). Don’t worry, it’s completely safe for your fish once cured!
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Attach the Plant:
- Thread Method: Gently wrap the thread around the rhizome and the object a few times until it’s secure but not crushing the plant. The thread will eventually dissolve or be covered by roots.
- Glue Method: Take the plant and hardscape out of the water and pat them dry. Apply a small dot of super glue gel to the rock/wood, then press the rhizome firmly onto the glue for about 30 seconds until it holds. This is my preferred method—it’s fast and clean.
- Place it in the Tank: Carefully place your newly decorated hardscape into your aquarium. The plant’s fine, hair-like roots will eventually grow and wrap around the object, anchoring it permanently.
Common Problems with Anubias Nana vs Java Fern (And How to Fix Them)
Even these “bulletproof” plants can run into trouble. Don’t panic! Here’s a quick troubleshooting guide for the most common issues you might face.
The Dreaded Rhizome Rot
The Symptom: The base of the plant feels mushy and is turning brown or black. Leaves are falling off at the base.
The Cause: The rhizome was buried in the substrate.
The Fix: Act fast! Immediately unbury the plant. With clean scissors, trim away any parts of the rhizome that are soft and rotting. If you have a healthy section left (even a small one), you can save it by attaching it to a rock or piece of wood.
Algae on the Leaves
The Symptom: A fuzzy or spotty coating of green, brown, or black algae is growing on the leaves.
The Cause: This is common due to their slow growth. It’s usually caused by too much light, an imbalance of nutrients, or low CO2.
The Fix: First, don’t just crank up the light. Try reducing your light duration to 6-8 hours per day. You can also gently wipe the algae off the tough Anubias leaves with your finger or a soft toothbrush. For both plants, introducing algae-eaters like Amano shrimp, Nerite snails, or Otocinclus catfish can be a huge help.
Java Fern “Melt” or Black Spots
The Symptom: Your beautiful Java Fern leaves are developing dark brown or black patches, becoming transparent, and seemingly disintegrating.
The Cause: This is usually a sign of stress from being moved to a new environment (new water parameters, lighting, etc.). It can also indicate a potassium deficiency.
The Fix: Be patient. This is very common. Trim off the heavily affected leaves at their base. As long as the rhizome is healthy and green, the plant will almost always bounce back by sending out new, stronger leaves that are better adapted to your tank. Dosing a comprehensive liquid fertilizer can also help.
Benefits of Anubias Nana and Java Fern for a Thriving Aquarium
Beyond being easy to care for, these plants are incredible assets to your aquarium’s ecosystem. Here are just a few of the benefits of anubias nana vs java fern:
- Natural Shelter: Their leaves provide excellent cover for shy fish, shrimp, and especially fry. Bettas famously love to rest on the broad, sturdy leaves of Anubias Nana, often called “betta hammocks.”
- Improved Water Quality: Like all live plants, they consume nitrates from the water column. Nitrates are a byproduct of fish waste and can be harmful in high concentrations. These plants act as natural, self-sustaining filters.
- Surface for Beneficial Bacteria: The vast surface area of their leaves and roots becomes prime real estate for colonies of beneficial bacteria, which are essential for a healthy nitrogen cycle.
- Confidence Boosters: Their resilience makes them incredibly rewarding for beginners. Successfully keeping a plant alive and watching it grow is one of the best parts of the hobby!
Frequently Asked Questions About Anubias Nana vs Java Fern
Can I plant Anubias Nana and Java Fern together?
Absolutely! They are a classic, stunning combination. Use the taller Java Fern in the background or on a large centerpiece of driftwood, and place the shorter Anubias Nana in the midground or foreground on smaller rocks. Their different textures and growth habits complement each other perfectly.
Which is better for a betta tank?
Both are fantastic choices for a betta tank due to their low light needs and preference for similar water parameters. However, Anubias Nana often gets the edge because its broad, horizontal leaves create the perfect resting spots for bettas to lounge on near the surface.
Do I need special fertilizer or substrate for these plants?
Nope! Since they are epiphytes that are attached to hardscape, they pull most of their nutrients directly from the water column, not the substrate. A nutrient-rich substrate isn’t necessary. Dosing a simple, all-in-one liquid aquarium fertilizer once or twice a week is more than enough to keep them happy and healthy.
Why are my Java Fern leaves turning brown and transparent?
This is most likely “Java Fern melt.” It’s a very common reaction when the plant is adjusting to a new tank. It looks alarming, but it’s usually not fatal. Just trim away the melting leaves, ensure the rhizome is healthy and unburied, and give it time. New leaves adapted to your water will soon appear.
How fast do Anubias Nana and Java Fern grow?
Think snails, not racehorses. Anubias Nana is one of the slowest-growing plants in the hobby, producing maybe one new leaf a month. Java Fern is slightly faster but still very slow compared to stem plants. This is great for low-maintenance tanks!
The Final Verdict: Which Plant is for You?
So, after our deep dive into the anubias nana vs java fern debate, which one should you choose? The beautiful truth is, you really can’t go wrong.
Choose Anubias Nana if you want a compact, tough, and dark green plant to create low-lying points of interest in your foreground or midground. It’s perfect for adding detail and a sense of permanence.
Choose Java Fern if you want a taller, graceful, and bright green plant to create a flowing, jungle-like background. It’s perfect for adding a sense of motion and filling vertical space.
Or, better yet, why not choose both? They are a match made in aquascaping heaven. Whichever path you take, you’re adding two of the most reliable and rewarding plants to your underwater world. You’re well on your way to creating a beautiful, thriving, and sustainable aquarium.
Happy scaping!
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