Anubias Nana Vs Anubias Hastifola: A Complete Guide To Choosing The
Stepping into the world of Anubias can feel a bit like walking into a family reunion where everyone looks vaguely similar. You know they’re related, but telling them apart—and knowing which one will fit in at your party—can be a real head-scratcher.
I hear it all the time from fellow hobbyists: “They’re both green, they both have a rhizome… what’s the big deal?” If you’ve ever found yourself staring at two pots of Anubias, feeling completely stumped, you are not alone.
Don’t worry, because I’m here to clear up all the confusion. This guide is your new best friend for navigating the anubias nana vs anubias hastifola debate. We’re going to break down every detail, from their distinct looks to their specific care needs and ideal roles in your aquascape.
By the time you’re done reading, you’ll be able to spot the difference from across the fish store and choose with absolute confidence. Imagine creating a lush, layered aquascape where every plant is perfectly placed—that’s the power of knowing your Anubias. Let’s dive in!
At a Glance: Key Differences Between Anubias Nana and Hastifola
Before we get into the nitty-gritty, let’s start with a quick side-by-side comparison. Think of this as the cheat sheet for your next trip to the local fish store. This quick overview helps highlight the core distinctions in the anubias nana vs anubias hastifola matchup.
- Leaf Shape: This is the most obvious giveaway. Anubias nana has classic, oval-shaped leaves. Anubias hastifola, on the other hand, boasts stunning, arrowhead or spade-shaped leaves, especially as it matures.
- Size and Height: There’s a massive difference here. Anubias nana is a true dwarf plant, typically staying under 6 inches (15 cm) tall. Anubias hastifola is a giant in comparison, easily reaching heights of 12-24 inches (30-60 cm) or more.
- Leaf Stems (Petioles): The stems connecting the leaves to the rhizome are short on Nana, creating a dense, bushy look. Hastifola has very long, elegant petioles that allow its leaves to stretch up towards the light.
- Aquascaping Role: Nana is your go-to for foreground and midground details. It’s perfect for attaching to driftwood and rocks. Hastifola is a born background or centerpiece plant for larger tanks, creating a dramatic vertical element.
Meet the Contenders: A Closer Look at Each Plant
Now that you have the highlights, let’s get properly introduced. Understanding the unique personality of each plant is key to making the right choice for your underwater world.
Anubias Nana: The Compact Aquascaping Staple
If you’ve seen one Anubias in an aquarium, it was probably Anubias nana. This little plant is an absolute workhorse and a favorite for good reason. Its deep green, leathery leaves are tough as nails, making them resistant to nibbling by most fish.
Its growth pattern is low and creeping. The rhizome (the thick, horizontal stem from which roots and leaves grow) will slowly extend, and new leaves will sprout, forming a dense, lush clump. This makes it incredibly versatile. You can tuck it into small crevices in rocks, create a border along the front of your tank, or attach several small pieces to a piece of driftwood to create a “tree” effect.
For nano tanks or aquariums under 20 gallons, Anubias nana is often the perfect, low-maintenance choice that adds a splash of vibrant green without overwhelming the space.
Anubias Hastifola: The Elegant, Arrow-Leaved Giant
Anubias hastifola is where the Anubias family starts to show off its dramatic side. The name hastifola literally means “spear-leafed,” and it delivers. The leaves have two distinct lobes at the base, creating that unmistakable arrowhead shape that sets it apart.
This is not a plant for a small tank. Its long stems and large leaves are designed to make a statement. In a large aquarium (think 40 gallons and up), it can serve as a magnificent background plant, hiding filters and heaters while adding a touch of the wild. Its height and unique texture provide a beautiful contrast to finer-leaved stem plants.
One of the coolest things about Hastifola is its ability to grow emersed, meaning with its leaves out of the water. This makes it a phenomenal choice for paludariums or tanks where you want foliage breaking the water’s surface.
The Definitive Anubias Nana vs Anubias Hastifola Care Guide
Here’s the great news: when it comes to care, these two plants are more alike than different. Anubias, as a genus, is famous for being incredibly hardy. However, there are a few nuances to be aware of in this anubias nana vs anubias hastifola care guide.
Lighting Requirements: Low-Light Champions
Both plants are stars of the low-tech, low-light aquarium. They do not need intense lighting to thrive. In fact, too much light is their number one enemy, as it encourages slow-growing algae to take hold on their leaves.
Anubias nana, being smaller and often placed lower in the tank, is particularly susceptible to being covered in algae under bright lights. It’s happiest in shaded areas or under low-to-moderate lighting. Anubias hastifola can tolerate slightly more light, simply because its leaves grow up closer to the source, but it still prefers a more moderate setting.
Water Parameters: Hardy and Forgiving
You don’t need to be a water chemistry wizard for these plants. They are incredibly adaptable.
- Temperature: They are comfortable in a typical tropical range of 72-82°F (22-28°C).
- pH: A wide range of 6.0 to 8.0 is perfectly fine.
- Hardness: They aren’t fussy about water hardness, thriving in both soft and hard water.
This adaptability is one of the greatest benefits of anubias nana vs anubias hastifola; they can fit into almost any existing community tank without special requirements.
Substrate and Fertilization Needs
This is the single most important rule for any Anubias: Do NOT bury the rhizome! I can’t stress this enough. The rhizome is the plant’s life force. If you bury it in sand or gravel, it will rot, and the plant will die. It’s one of the most common problems with anubias nana vs anubias hastifola that beginners face.
Instead, you should attach the plant to a hard surface. You can use super glue gel (make sure it’s cyanoacrylate-based), fishing line, or cotton thread to secure the rhizome to a piece of driftwood or a rock. The fine, wiry roots will eventually grip the surface on their own.
As for feeding, they are not heavy root feeders. They primarily absorb nutrients from the water column through their leaves and roots. A comprehensive liquid fertilizer dosed once or twice a week is more than enough to keep them happy.
Aquascaping and Placement: Best Practices for Each Species
Knowing how to use each plant is just as important as knowing how to grow it. Here are some of my favorite anubias nana vs anubias hastifola tips for aquascaping.
Creating Depth with Anubias Nana
Anubias nana is a master of detail. Its small size allows you to use it to create a sense of scale and depth. Try tucking small pieces into the crevices of a large piece of dragon stone or driftwood. Over time, it will grow into a natural-looking, aged feature.
You can also create a beautiful, low-maintenance foreground by attaching several plants to small, flat stones and arranging them along the front of your tank. This creates a lush border that requires almost no trimming.
Making a Statement with Anubias Hastifola
Anubias hastifola is all about creating a focal point. Use its height to your advantage. Place it in the back corners of your tank to frame the aquascape and draw the eye inward. A single, large Hastifola specimen can serve as a stunning centerpiece in a medium-sized tank, surrounded by shorter plants.
Don’t be afraid to let it grow tall. The sight of its unique arrowhead leaves reaching for the surface adds a dynamic, jungle-like feel that few other plants can replicate.
Propagation and Sustainable Growth: An Eco-Friendly Approach
One of the best parts of owning Anubias is that you’ll never have to buy another one again! Propagating them is simple and a fantastic way to practice sustainable anubias nana vs anubias hastifola care. Creating new plants from your existing ones is the ultimate eco-friendly practice for our hobby.
How to Propagate Anubias (The Right Way)
Propagating both Nana and Hastifola follows the exact same method. It’s all about a clean cut on the rhizome.
- Remove the Plant: Gently take the plant out of the aquarium. This makes it much easier to see what you’re doing.
- Identify a Spot to Cut: Look at the rhizome. You want to make a cut that leaves at least 3-4 healthy leaves on each new section. Cutting a piece with only one leaf is risky and may not survive.
- Make a Clean Cut: Use a sharp, clean pair of scissors or a razor blade. A clean cut helps prevent infection and promotes faster healing.
- Re-attach Your New Plants: You now have two (or more) plants! Attach them to new pieces of hardscape or different spots in your tank just as you did with the original.
Common Problems with Anubias Nana vs Anubias Hastifola (and How to Fix Them!)
While these plants are tough, they aren’t invincible. Here are a few common issues and how to troubleshoot them. These are some of the most important parts of any good anubias nana vs anubias hastifola guide.
The Dreaded Anubias Algae
Because Anubias leaves grow so slowly and last for a long time, they are prime real estate for algae, especially spot algae. This is almost always caused by too much light.
- The Fix: Reduce your lighting period (6-8 hours is plenty) or the intensity. You can also add floating plants like frogbit to diffuse the light. A cleanup crew of nerite snails or Amano shrimp will also do wonders to keep the leaves clean.
Rhizome Rot: The Silent Killer
As mentioned before, this is caused by burying the rhizome in the substrate. The rhizome will turn brown, get mushy, and the plant will fall apart.
- The Fix: Prevention is the only cure. Never bury the rhizome. If you catch it early, you can sometimes save the plant by unburying it and trimming away any soft, rotting sections with a clean blade.
Yellowing Leaves
An occasional yellow leaf is normal; it’s just an old leaf dying off. Simply trim it off at the base. If you notice multiple leaves turning yellow at once, it could be a sign of a nutrient deficiency, most commonly potassium or nitrogen.
- The Fix: Start dosing a well-rounded liquid fertilizer if you aren’t already. This usually solves the problem within a few weeks as new, healthy leaves grow in.
Frequently Asked Questions About Anubias Nana vs Anubias Hastifola
Can Anubias nana and Anubias hastifola be kept in the same tank?
Absolutely! In a large enough tank (30 gallons or more), they create a beautiful sense of scale. Using the small, bushy Nana in the foreground with the tall, elegant Hastifola in the background is a classic aquascaping technique that looks fantastic.
Which Anubias is better for beginners?
Both are among the best beginner plants in the entire hobby. However, for someone starting with a smaller tank (like a 10 or 20-gallon kit), Anubias nana is the more practical and manageable choice. Hastifola would quickly outgrow a small setup.
Do these plants need CO2 injection?
Nope! This is one of their biggest selling points. Both Anubias nana and Anubias hastifola thrive in low-tech setups without any supplemental CO2, making them easy and affordable.
How fast do they grow?
Painfully, wonderfully slow. You might see one new leaf every few weeks to a month. This is a feature, not a bug! Their slow growth means they require almost no trimming or maintenance, which is perfect for a low-key, beautiful aquarium.
The Final Verdict: Which Anubias is for You?
So, after breaking it all down, the choice in the anubias nana vs anubias hastifola showdown isn’t about which plant is “better”—it’s about which plant is better for your vision and your tank.
If you have a smaller aquarium, want to add intricate detail to your hardscape, or need a lush foreground plant that won’t ever need a haircut, Anubias nana is your undisputed champion.
If you have a larger tank, need a dramatic background plant to add height and texture, or want a unique centerpiece with a striking leaf shape, then Anubias hastifola is calling your name.
Both are incredibly rewarding, tough-as-nails plants that will bring years of beauty to your aquarium. Now that you’re armed with all the knowledge from this guide, you can choose with confidence. Go forth and grow!
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