Anubias Nana Vs Anubias: Choosing The Perfect Plant For Your Tank
Walking into your local fish store, you see it: a wall of lush, green aquatic plants. Your eyes are drawn to the deep green, waxy leaves of the Anubias. It looks perfect for that piece of driftwood in your tank. But then you see the labels: “Anubias barteri,” “Anubias nana,” “Anubias nana ‘Petite’.” Suddenly, a simple choice feels complicated. Sound familiar?
You’re not alone. Many aquarists, new and experienced, have paused at that very same wall, wondering what the real difference is. While all Anubias are famously hardy, choosing the right one can be the secret to transforming your aquascape from nice to breathtaking. Picking the wrong size can throw off your tank’s entire sense of scale.
Imagine effortlessly creating those lush, green underwater landscapes you see online, with every plant perfectly placed and thriving. Imagine having a go-to plant that asks for almost nothing but gives your tank so much life and beauty in return. That’s the power of picking the right Anubias for the job.
In this complete anubias nana vs anubias guide, we’re going to clear up all the confusion. We’ll dive deep into their key differences, where they shine in your tank, and the simple care secrets that will make them flourish. Let’s get you ready to choose with confidence!
What is Anubias? Meet the Undisputed King of Beginner Plants
Before we pit one against the other, let’s get to know the family. Anubias is a genus of aquatic and semi-aquatic flowering plants native to the tropical rivers and streams of central and western Africa. In the aquarium hobby, they are legendary for being nearly indestructible.
Think of them as the succulents of the underwater world. They are incredibly resilient, adaptable, and perfect for anyone who thinks they have a “black thumb” with aquarium plants.
All Anubias species share a few key traits:
- The Rhizome: This is the thick, horizontal stem from which the leaves and roots grow. This is the life force of the plant and, as we’ll see, the key to planting it correctly.
- Slow Growth: Anubias grow very, very slowly. You might only see a new leaf every few weeks. This is a huge plus, as it means far less trimming and maintenance for you!
- Low Light Tolerance: They don’t need powerful, expensive lights to thrive. In fact, they often do better in lower-light conditions.
- Hardy Leaves: Their leaves are thick, tough, and a bit rubbery. This makes them resistant to damage and unappealing to most plant-eating fish like Goldfish or many cichlids.
These traits make them a cornerstone plant for beginners and a versatile tool for expert aquascapers. Now, let’s get to the main event.
The Core Showdown: Anubias Nana vs Anubias Barteri
Here’s the first secret you need to know: the debate of anubias nana vs anubias is a little misleading. When people say “Anubias Nana,” they’re referring to the specific variety Anubias barteri var. nana. When they say “Anubias,” they are usually referring to the parent plant, Anubias barteri var. barteri.
So, it’s not a battle of two different species, but a comparison of two varieties of the same species! Think of it like a Golden Retriever versus a Labrador Retriever—both are retrievers, but with distinct differences in size and build. Let’s break those differences down.
Size and Growth Habit: The Biggest Tell
This is the most important difference and the primary factor in your decision. Their size directly impacts where they will fit and look best in your aquarium.
Anubias Nana: This is the dwarf variety. It stays small, compact, and tends to grow more horizontally, creating a low, bushy appearance.
- Height: Typically 2-6 inches (5-15 cm).
- Best For: Foreground and midground placement. It’s perfect for attaching to small pieces of driftwood or rocks, creating detailed focal points without blocking the view. It’s the go-to choice for nano tanks (tanks under 10 gallons).
Anubias Barteri (Standard): This is the bigger brother. It grows taller and more upright, taking up significantly more vertical space in your tank.
- Height: Can easily reach 8-16 inches (20-40 cm).
- Best For: Midground and background placement. Use it to fill in empty space, hide aquarium equipment like heaters or filter intakes, and provide a lush green backdrop for your aquascape.
Leaf Shape and Color
While subtle, you can often tell them apart just by looking at the leaves. This is one of the best anubias nana vs anubias tips for identifying them in a store.
The leaves of Anubias Nana are generally smaller, broader, and more rounded, with a rich, deep green color. They are densely packed along the rhizome, contributing to its bushy look.
The leaves of Anubias Barteri are noticeably larger and more elongated or spear-shaped. They can be a slightly lighter shade of green compared to the deep emerald of the Nana variety.
Aquascaping Potential: Finding the Right Job
Think of these plants as tools in your aquascaping toolkit. You wouldn’t use a sledgehammer for a finishing nail, and you wouldn’t use a tiny Anubias Nana to fill a huge background space.
Choose Anubias Nana for:
- Creating intricate detail in the foreground.
- Attaching to small, gnarled branches of driftwood.
- Tucking into crevices between rocks.
- Forming a low-maintenance, textured “carpet” over time (a very, very long time!).
- Serving as the main feature plant in nano and betta tanks.
Choose Anubias Barteri for:
- Creating a bold midground statement piece.
- Filling out the corners and back of your aquarium.
- Providing substantial cover for shy fish or fry.
- Flanking larger pieces of hardscape to soften their edges.
A Shared Care Guide for Anubias Success
Here’s the great news. Once you’ve made your choice, the hard part is over! The anubias nana vs anubias care guide is virtually identical for both plants because they are fundamentally the same. Following these best practices will ensure they thrive for years.
Lighting: Less Is Truly More
Anubias are true low-light champions. They evolved under the dense canopy of rainforests, receiving only dappled sunlight. In your aquarium, they prefer low to moderate lighting.
Exposing them to intense, direct light is the number one mistake aquarists make. It won’t kill the plant directly, but because it grows so slowly, its leaves become a perfect, stationary breeding ground for stubborn algae. Keep the light gentle!
Planting 101: Do Not Bury the Rhizome!
If you remember one thing from this guide, make it this. The rhizome—that thick, green horizontal stem—needs to be exposed to the water column to breathe. If you bury it under your sand or gravel, it will rot, and the plant will die. This is a major key to how to anubias nana vs anubias are planted.
Here’s how to do it right:
- Attach to Hardscape: This is the most common and effective method. Use a dab of aquarium-safe super glue gel (cyanoacrylate) or tie the rhizome to a rock or piece of driftwood using cotton thread or fishing line. The roots will eventually grip the surface on their own.
- “Plant” on Substrate: If you want it on the floor of your tank, you can use a plant weight to hold it down or gently wedge it between rocks, ensuring the rhizome sits on top of the substrate, not buried within it.
Water Parameters and Fertilization
Anubias are not fussy. They will tolerate a wide range of water conditions, which is another reason they are so popular.
- Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)
- pH: 6.0-8.0
- Hardness: Soft to hard water is fine.
They are slow feeders and pull most of their nutrients from the water column. While they can survive in tanks with just fish waste, they will do much better with a little help. Dosing a comprehensive liquid fertilizer once or twice a week provides all the micronutrients they need for robust, healthy leaves.
Common Problems with Anubias Nana vs Anubias (and Easy Fixes!)
Even these tough plants can run into trouble. Luckily, the common problems with anubias nana vs anubias are usually easy to diagnose and fix.
The Dreaded Anubias Algae
The Problem: Your beautiful green leaves are covered in ugly green spot algae or fuzzy black beard algae.
The Cause: Almost always too much light. The algae can grow faster than the plant’s natural defenses can handle.
The Fix:
- Reduce your light’s intensity or the duration it’s on (aim for 6-8 hours per day).
- Ensure you have good water circulation.
- Introduce an algae-eating crew! Amano shrimp, Nerite snails, and Otocinclus catfish love to clean Anubias leaves.
- For stubborn spots, you can do a spot treatment by turning off your filter and carefully applying a small amount of liquid carbon or 3% hydrogen peroxide directly to the algae with a pipette. Wait 10 minutes, then turn your filter back on.
Rhizome Rot: The Silent Killer
The Problem: Leaves are turning yellow and falling off at the base. The rhizome feels soft and mushy.
The Cause: The rhizome was buried in the substrate.
The Fix: Act fast! Unbury the plant immediately. With a clean razor blade or scissors, cut away any soft, brown, or mushy parts of the rhizome. If you have a healthy section left with a few leaves, you may be able to save it by re-attaching it to hardscape. Prevention is the best cure here.
Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Anubias Practices
One of the greatest benefits of anubias nana vs anubias is how easy they are to propagate. This is the heart of keeping these plants in a sustainable and eco-friendly way.
Once your Anubias rhizome has grown long and has at least 6-8 healthy leaves, you can easily create new plants. Simply take a clean pair of scissors and cut the rhizome, ensuring each new piece has at least 3-4 leaves. That’s it! You’ve just created a new plant to use elsewhere in your tank or to share with a friend.
By propagating your own plants, you reduce the demand for wild-harvested specimens and save money. Choosing lab-grown, tissue-cultured Anubias is another fantastic, eco-friendly anubias nana vs anubias practice, as it guarantees your plant is free from pests, algae, and pesticides.
Frequently Asked Questions About Anubias Nana vs Anubias
Can I keep Anubias Nana and Anubias Barteri in the same tank?
Absolutely! In fact, they look fantastic together. Using them in the same aquascape allows you to play with scale and depth. Use the larger Barteri in the back to create a lush background and the smaller Nana in the foreground for detail. It’s one of the best anubias nana vs anubias best practices for a natural look.
Which is better for a betta fish tank?
Both are phenomenal choices for a betta. Bettas famously love to rest on broad, sturdy leaves, and Anubias provide the perfect perches. For smaller betta tanks (5-10 gallons), Anubias Nana is usually the better fit due to its compact size. For larger tanks (15+ gallons), you can easily incorporate both.
How fast do Anubias actually grow?
Extremely slowly. Under good conditions, you can expect about one new leaf every 3 to 5 weeks. Don’t be discouraged by this! Their slow growth is a feature, not a bug. It means your aquascape will look the way you designed it for a very long time with minimal pruning.
The Final Verdict: Which Anubias is for You?
As we’ve seen, the choice between anubias nana vs anubias isn’t about which one is “better,” but which one is the right size for the job you have in mind. Their care is identical, their resilience is legendary, and their beauty is undeniable.
To put it simply:
- For detail, foregrounds, and small tanks, the compact, bushy Anubias Nana is your champion.
- For backgrounds, filling space, and larger tanks, the taller, stately Anubias Barteri is the perfect choice.
No matter which you pick, you are adding one of the most reliable and rewarding plants to your underwater garden. They will ask for very little but will reward you with consistent, deep green beauty for years to come. Now, go forth and aquascape with confidence!
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