Anubias Nana Not Growing – 7 Common Mistakes & How To Fix Them Fast
You’ve seen the stunning photos online: lush, green Anubias Nana plants creating a vibrant, maintenance-free carpet over driftwood and rocks. You bought one, carefully placed it in your aquarium, and waited for the magic to happen. And you waited… and waited.
If you’re staring at a plant that hasn’t put out a new leaf in months, you’re probably thinking, “What am I doing wrong?” It’s a frustrating feeling that almost every aquarist has experienced.
But here’s the good news: the problem of your anubias nana not growing is almost always due to a few simple, easily-fixable mistakes. This isn’t about complicated chemistry or expensive equipment. It’s about understanding what this unique plant truly needs to thrive.
In this guide, we’re going to walk through the most common issues step-by-step. You’ll learn exactly how to diagnose the problem and get your Anubias on the path to slow, steady, and beautiful growth. Let’s turn that stagnant plant into the thriving centerpiece you envisioned.
First Things First: Understanding Anubias Nana’s “Slow and Steady” Nature
Before we dive into troubleshooting, let’s set some realistic expectations. Anubias Nana is the tortoise of the aquatic plant world. Its claim to fame is its hardiness and incredibly slow growth rate. This is actually one of the benefits of anubias nana not growing too quickly—it means less trimming and maintenance for you!
In a healthy, well-established tank, you might only see one new leaf every three to five weeks. That’s it! If you’re used to stem plants that seem to grow an inch overnight, this can feel like it’s not growing at all.
The key is to distinguish between slow growth and a complete stall or, worse, decline. A healthy but slow-growing Anubias will have deep green, firm leaves. A plant that is truly struggling will show signs of distress like yellowing leaves, transparent patches, or a soft, mushy rhizome.
So, if your plant looks healthy but is just taking its sweet time, take a deep breath. Patience is your best friend. But if it’s been months with zero change or you see signs of trouble, it’s time to investigate. The following sections in this anubias nana not growing guide will show you how.
The #1 Culprit: Is Your Anubias Planted Incorrectly?
If I had to bet on the single reason your Anubias Nana isn’t growing, this would be it. More than 90% of the time, a struggling Anubias is a planted Anubias. This is the most critical piece of information in any anubias nana not growing care guide.
The All-Important Rhizome
Look at your plant. See that thick, horizontal stem where all the leaves and roots sprout from? That’s the rhizome. It’s the life force of the plant, acting as its nutrient storage center.
Here’s the golden rule: The rhizome must NEVER be buried under your substrate.
When you bury the rhizome in sand or gravel, you suffocate it. It can’t exchange gases or absorb nutrients properly from the water. Within weeks, it will begin to rot, turning soft and brown. Once the rhizome rots, the entire plant will die. This is, without a doubt, the most common problem with Anubias Nana not growing.
Best Practices for Attaching Your Anubias
So, how do you secure it? Anubias are epiphytes, which means in nature, they grow attached to surfaces like rocks and wood, not in the soil. We need to mimic that in our aquariums.
- Super Glue Method (The Aquascaper’s Favorite): This is the quickest and easiest method. Take your plant and your chosen piece of driftwood or rock out of the tank. Pat both the plant’s rhizome and the spot on the hardscape dry. Apply a few dabs of cyanoacrylate gel super glue (make sure it’s 100% cyanoacrylate!) to the rock, press the rhizome onto it for 30 seconds, and you’re done! You can place it back in the water immediately.
- Fishing Line or Thread Method: If you prefer a non-glue approach, you can simply tie the Anubias to your hardscape. Use a dark cotton thread (which will dissolve over time) or a thin fishing line. Wrap it around the rhizome and the object a few times, tie a secure knot, and snip the excess. The plant’s roots will eventually grip the surface on their own.
Fixing this one mistake can single-handedly solve your growth problem.
Are You Giving It the Right Light? (It’s Not What You Think)
Many beginners think more light equals more growth. For many plants, that’s true. For Anubias Nana, it’s the opposite. These plants evolved in the shaded understory of rainforest streams, and they bring that preference into our aquariums.
The Dangers of Too Much Light
Blasting your Anubias with high-intensity light is a recipe for disaster. Because the leaves grow so slowly, they become a perfect, stationary target for algae. Intense light will often lead to an outbreak of stubborn Green Spot Algae (GSA) or Black Beard Algae (BBA) all over the beautiful leaves.
This algae not only looks bad but also blocks the leaf from photosynthesizing, effectively starving the plant and causing it to stall or decline. This is one of the most common problems with anubias nana not growing that aquarists face.
Finding the “Goldilocks Zone”
Your goal is low to moderate light. Here’s how to achieve that:
- Strategic Placement: Don’t place your Anubias directly under the light fixture. Tuck it into a shaded corner, under the leaves of larger plants, or beneath a piece of overhanging driftwood.
- Floating Plants: Add some floating plants like Frogbit or Red Root Floaters. They act as natural diffusers, scattering the light and creating perfect dappled conditions for Anubias below.
- Control Your Photoperiod: Keep your aquarium lights on for a consistent 6-8 hours per day. Any longer often encourages algae more than plant growth.
Let’s Talk Nutrients: The Anubias Nana Care Guide to Feeding
“My anubias nana not growing, so it must be hungry!” That’s a logical conclusion, but how you feed it matters immensely. Since Anubias is an epiphyte with its roots in the water, not the substrate, it gets its nutrition differently than a stem plant.
Why Substrate Fertilizers Won’t Help Much
If you’re pushing root tabs into the gravel around your Anubias, you’re essentially wasting your money. The plant’s small, wiry roots are primarily for anchoring itself to a surface. They are not efficient at absorbing nutrients from the substrate.
The Power of Liquid Fertilizers
Anubias feeds directly from the water column. This makes a high-quality, comprehensive liquid fertilizer your best friend. Look for an “all-in-one” product that contains both macronutrients (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium) and micronutrients (Iron, Manganese, etc.).
A simple dosing schedule is all you need. Dosing once or twice a week, especially after your weekly water change, is plenty. Don’t overdo it! Excess nutrients in the water can fuel algae blooms. Consistent, moderate dosing is the key to providing your Anubias with the steady supply of food it needs for its slow, methodical growth.
How to Anubias Nana Not Growing: Diagnosing Specific Symptoms
Sometimes, your plant will give you specific clues about what’s wrong. Learning to read these signs is a key part of our how to anubias nana not growing troubleshooting. Let’s decode the most common symptoms.
Symptom: Yellowing Leaves (Chlorosis)
If new leaves are coming in pale or older leaves are turning yellow (while the veins remain a bit greener), you’re likely seeing a nutrient deficiency. This is often a lack of nitrogen or iron.
The Fix: Start using a comprehensive liquid fertilizer as described above. A consistent supply of micronutrients will usually solve this issue and restore that deep green color.
Symptom: Melting or Rotting Rhizome
As we covered, this is almost always caused by the rhizome being buried. It can also be a sign of a rare infection called Anubias rot.
The Fix: Immediately unbury the rhizome. If parts of it are soft and mushy, you need to perform surgery. Take the plant out, and with a sharp, clean razor blade or scissors, carefully cut away every last bit of the rotted tissue. Healthy rhizome is very firm. Then, re-attach it to a rock or piece of wood.
Symptom: Leaves Covered in Algae
This is a direct sign of an imbalance in your tank, usually too much light and/or inconsistent nutrient levels.
The Fix: Reduce your light intensity or duration. Move the plant to a shadier spot. Ensure you are dosing fertilizers consistently and performing regular water changes. You can try to gently scrub the algae off with a soft toothbrush, but preventing it from returning is the real goal.
Creating a Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Environment
At its core, a thriving Anubias is the result of a stable, healthy aquarium ecosystem. Focusing on these fundamentals is the most sustainable anubias nana not growing strategy. It’s about creating a balanced environment where plants flourish naturally.
Instead of constantly reacting to problems, focus on these pillars:
- Stable Parameters: Anubias are tough, but they don’t like sudden swings. Keep your temperature stable (ideally 72-82°F / 22-28°C) and your pH consistent. Regular, partial water changes are the best way to maintain stability.
- Gentle Water Flow: Good circulation is important. It brings nutrients to the plant and keeps debris from settling on its leaves. However, you don’t want to place your Anubias directly in the blast of a filter outlet, which can damage its leaves over time.
- Healthy Tank Mates: Certain fish and invertebrates are fantastic partners. Amano shrimp and Nerite snails, for example, are excellent algae eaters and will help keep your Anubias leaves clean in an eco-friendly anubias nana not growing setup, reducing the need for manual cleaning.
Frequently Asked Questions About Anubias Nana Not Growing
How fast is Anubias Nana supposed to grow?
Extremely slowly! In a perfect, high-tech setup with CO2 injection, you might get a new leaf every week or two. In a typical low-tech tank, expecting one new leaf every 3-5 weeks is a realistic and healthy growth rate. Don’t mistake its slow nature for a lack of health.
Can I cut the rhizome to propagate my Anubias?
Absolutely! This is how you create new plants. Wait until your Anubias has at least 8-10 healthy leaves. You can then cut the rhizome with a clean blade, ensuring each new piece has at least 3-4 leaves. It’s a great way to spread this beautiful plant around your aquarium.
Why are there tiny pinholes in my Anubias leaves?
Pinholes appearing in the leaves, especially older ones, are a classic sign of a potassium (K) deficiency. Most all-in-one liquid fertilizers contain plenty of potassium. If you see this, ensure you are dosing your fertilizer regularly. The old leaves won’t repair themselves, but new growth should be healthy and hole-free.
Do I need CO2 for my Anubias Nana to grow?
No, you do not. This is one of the best things about Anubias—it is a true low-tech champion. It can thrive beautifully in aquariums without any CO2 injection. While adding CO2 will speed up its growth rate, it is completely optional and unnecessary for its health.
Your Path to a Thriving Anubias
Solving the mystery of an anubias nana not growing is usually a process of elimination, and it almost always comes back to the basics. Remember the three golden rules:
- Keep the rhizome above the substrate.
- Provide low to moderate light.
- Offer consistent nutrients via a liquid fertilizer.
Patience is the ultimate aquarist’s tool. Anubias teaches us to appreciate the slow, steady beauty of nature. Give your plant the simple conditions it craves, and while it won’t break any speed records, it will reward you with tough, beautiful, deep green leaves that will be a cornerstone of your aquascape for years to come.
You now have all the anubias nana not growing tips you need to succeed. Go check on that plant—its journey to lush growth starts today. Happy scaping!
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