Anubias Barteri Aquarium Plant – The Ultimate Care Guide For A Lush Tank

We’ve all been there—buying a beautiful green plant only to watch it turn into brown mush a week later. It is frustrating when your vision of a lush underwater jungle doesn’t match the reality of your tank.

I promise you that adding the anubias barteri aquarium plant to your setup is the single best decision you can make for a stress-free experience. This plant is legendary for being nearly indestructible and strikingly beautiful.

In this guide, I’m going to show you exactly how to plant, grow, and propagate this hardy species so you can enjoy a vibrant aquarium without the constant maintenance. Let’s dive into the world of this “unkillable” aquatic wonder.

Understanding the anubias barteri aquarium plant

The anubias barteri aquarium plant is originally from the shaded riverbanks of West Africa. Because it grows in areas where water levels rise and fall, it has adapted to live both underwater and above the surface.

In the hobby, we call this an “epiphyte.” This means it doesn’t actually need to be buried in soil to survive. In fact, burying it is one of the most common mistakes beginners make.

Its leaves are thick, leathery, and dark green. This tough texture makes it a favorite for keepers of herbivorous fish like Goldfish or Cichlids, who usually shred softer plants like Amazon Swords or Vallisneria.

There are several varieties of this species, ranging from the tiny Anubias barteri var. nana to the much larger Anubias barteri var. caladiifolia. Regardless of the variety, the care requirements remain remarkably similar.

The plant grows via a thick, horizontal stem called a rhizome. Think of the rhizome as the “engine” of the plant. As long as this part is healthy and exposed to water flow, the plant will continue to produce new leaves.

Ideal Water Parameters and Tank Conditions

One of the reasons I always recommend this plant is its incredible tolerance for different water conditions. It is the ultimate “set it and forget it” addition to your scape.

While it can survive almost anywhere, it truly thrives in temperatures between 72°F and 82°F (22°C – 28°C). This makes it suitable for both temperate and tropical setups.

In terms of water hardness, it isn’t picky. Whether you have soft water or liquid rock coming out of your tap, this plant will adapt. Aim for a pH between 6.0 and 7.5 for the best growth rates.

Because it is a slow grower, it doesn’t require a heavy fertilization schedule. However, it does appreciate a well-rounded liquid fertilizer that provides micronutrients like iron and potassium.

Water flow is another factor to consider. In the wild, these plants grow in moving water. Providing a gentle current helps keep the leaves clean of debris and prevents cyanobacteria from settling on the broad surfaces.

If you are keeping shrimp, you’ll notice they love grazing on the leaves. The broad surface area provides a perfect “table” for biofilm to grow, which serves as a natural snack for your invertebrates.

The Golden Rule: How to Plant Your Anubias

If you remember only one thing from this article, let it be this: Do not bury the rhizome in the substrate! This is the most frequent cause of plant death for new aquarists.

The rhizome needs constant access to fresh, oxygenated water. If you bury it under sand or gravel, it will slowly suffocate and rot. Once the rhizome rots, the entire plant will fall apart.

Instead, you should attach the plant to hardscape elements. This includes pieces of driftwood, spider wood, or porous rocks like lava rock. The roots will eventually wrap around these objects and anchor the plant firmly.

To attach it, you have three main options. You can use fishing line, which is nearly invisible and very strong. Simply wrap it around the rhizome and the wood a few times and tie a knot.

Another popular method is using cotton thread. The benefit here is that the thread will eventually dissolve in the water, but by that time, the plant’s roots will have already gripped the wood naturally.

My personal favorite method is using cyanoacrylate-based superglue gel. Just put a small dab on the rhizome (not the roots) and press it against your rock or wood for a few seconds. It is completely fish-safe once cured!

If you absolutely must have it on the “ground,” you can gently tuck the thin, white roots into the substrate while keeping the thick green rhizome sitting entirely above the surface.

Lighting Requirements: Avoiding the Algae Trap

Because the anubias barteri aquarium plant grows so slowly, it is particularly susceptible to Green Spot Algae (GSA). This is because the leaves stay in the tank for a long time without being replaced.

Low to medium lighting is the sweet spot. If your lights are too bright, or if the plant is positioned directly under a high-intensity LED, you will likely see green dots starting to cover the leaves.

If you have a high-tech tank with intense lighting, I suggest placing your Anubias in the shadows of taller plants or under overhanging pieces of driftwood. This “dappled light” mimics its natural habitat perfectly.

You don’t need expensive grow lights for this plant. Even basic “kit” lights that come with standard aquariums are usually sufficient to keep it healthy and growing.

Photoperiod is also important. Aim for 6 to 8 hours of light per day. If you start seeing algae issues, try reducing the duration by an hour or two before reaching for chemical algaecides.

Adding “cleaner” species can also help. Nerite snails and Amano shrimp are fantastic at keeping the broad leaves of your plants polished and free of algae buildup.

Propagation: How to Get More Plants for Free

One of the most rewarding parts of this hobby is watching your plants grow enough to create “babies.” Propagation for this species is incredibly simple and requires no special tools.

Look at the horizontal rhizome. You will see various points where leaves and roots emerge. To propagate, you simply need to cut the rhizome into sections using a sharp pair of scissors or a blade.

Each new section must have at least three to four healthy leaves and a few roots. If the section is too small, it might struggle to establish itself and grow very slowly.

Once you’ve made your cut, you can immediately attach the new “daughter” plant to a different piece of hardscape. It’s like getting free plants every few months as your original one matures!

Don’t be alarmed if the growth is slow. Anubias is the tortoise of the aquatic plant world. It may only produce one new leaf every few weeks, but those leaves are built to last for years.

Using a liquid carbon supplement (like Seachem Excel) can sometimes speed up growth slightly, but it is by no means necessary. Patience is your best tool when propagating these beauties.

Common Problems and Troubleshooting

Even though this is a “bulletproof” plant, you might run into a few hiccups. Let’s look at how to solve them like a pro so your tank stays looking its best.

Rhizome Rot: If the rhizome feels mushy or starts to turn brown/black and smell bad, it is rotting. This usually happens because it was buried or because of poor water circulation.

The fix? Cut away the rotted portion immediately with a sterilized blade. Ensure the remaining healthy green part is attached to wood or rock in an area with good water flow.

Yellowing Leaves (Chlorosis): If the leaves are turning yellow but the veins remain green, your plant might be hungry. This is often a sign of iron or potassium deficiency.

Start a weekly dosing regimen of a comprehensive liquid fertilizer. Since Anubias takes its nutrients from the water column rather than the soil, liquid ferts are much more effective than root tabs.

Holes in Leaves: Small pinholes are often a sign of potassium deficiency. Larger holes or “melted” edges might be caused by physical damage from fish or extreme changes in water chemistry.

If you see your fish nipping at the leaves, they probably aren’t eating the plant itself—Anubias tastes bitter! They are likely picking at algae or biofilm on the surface and accidentally damaging the leaf.

Melting: This rarely happens with Anubias compared to Cryptocoryne, but it can occur if the plant is moved from an “emergent” (out of water) environment to “submergent” (underwater) too quickly.

If a leaf turns translucent and falls off, just trim it at the base. As long as the rhizome is firm and green, the plant will bounce back and grow new, fully aquatic leaves.

Best Tank Mates for a Lush Anubias Display

The anubias barteri aquarium plant is versatile enough to fit into almost any community. However, some inhabitants truly shine when paired with this specific plant.

African Cichlids: These fish are notorious for digging up and eating plants. Because Anubias is attached to rocks and has tough leaves, it is one of the few plants that can survive a Cichlid tank.

Goldfish: Much like Cichlids, Goldfish love to forage. They will eat soft plants like Anacharis in seconds. The thick cuticle of the Anubias leaf makes it unappetizing and durable enough to withstand their “mouthing.”

Betta Fish: Bettas love to rest. The broad, horizontal leaves of Anubias barteri act like a natural “Betta hammock,” giving your fish a place to sleep near the surface where they can easily breathe air.

Dwarf Shrimp: Whether you keep Cherry Shrimp or Crystal Reds, they will spend all day cleaning the leaves. It provides them with a sense of security and a constant source of food.

Small Tetras and Rasboras: These schooling fish look stunning weaving in and out of the dense leaf structures. The dark green of the plant provides a high-contrast backdrop that makes the colors of your fish “pop.”

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I plant Anubias barteri in sand?

You can place it on sand, but do not bury the rhizome. You can bury the long, stringy roots, but the thick green horizontal stem must remain above the sand to prevent rot.

Does this plant need CO2 injection?

No, the anubias barteri aquarium plant does not require CO2. While adding CO2 will result in faster growth and larger leaves, it is perfectly healthy in a “low-tech” tank without it.

Why are my Anubias leaves turning black?

This is usually not the leaf itself turning black, but rather Black Brush Algae (BBA) growing on the surface. This is caused by fluctuating CO2 levels or too much light. You can treat it with a spot-dose of hydrogen peroxide.

How big does Anubias barteri get?

The standard Barteri variety can reach 12 to 18 inches in height over several years. If you have a smaller tank, you should look for the Nana variety, which stays much smaller (3-4 inches).

Can it grow out of the water?

Yes! It is an amphibious plant. In a terrarium or “paludarium” setup, it will grow happily as long as its roots and rhizome are kept very moist or submerged, and the humidity is high.

Is it safe for all fish?

Absolutely. It is non-toxic. While it contains calcium oxalate crystals which make it taste bitter (deterring fish from eating it), it will not harm your fish or invertebrates.

Conclusion: The Perfect Foundation for Your Aquarium

The anubias barteri aquarium plant is truly the “king” of low-maintenance aquascaping. Its ability to thrive in low light, survive without fancy substrates, and resist the appetites of hungry fish makes it a must-have.

Whether you are setting up your very first 10-gallon tank or maintaining a massive 150-gallon showpiece, this plant offers a touch of prehistoric beauty that few other species can match.

Remember: keep that rhizome exposed, give it a little bit of liquid fertilizer, and be patient with its growth. Before you know it, you’ll have a stunning, deep-green centerpiece that will last for years.

Don’t worry—this setup is perfect for beginners! Go ahead and grab a specimen from your local fish store and start your journey toward a greener, healthier aquarium today. Happy fishkeeping!